SUBDELTA Periscope 24-hour one-hand watch (Canceled)
SUBDELTA 2016 Limited Edition handbuilt titanium 24-hour one-hand automatic submarine watch with personalisations, 2 straps and Nanuk.
SUBDELTA 2016 Limited Edition
The SUBDELTA 2016 Limited Edition will be: the “Periscope“. A grade 5 titanium, 24-hour automatic movement with only one hand! The Periscope will be available in 39 and 42 mm, so smaller & bigger wrists (and boys & girls) should have no problems at all selecting the right version. Want one?
Why on earth… this one?
Surely, you’ve seen one-hand (“Einzeiger”) watches before. Some examples can be found here. You’ve probably seen 24-hour watches before too. But the combination – let alone with a mechanical movement and a crosshair sandwich dial – is quite rare.
Love it or hate it, but we don’t want to issue mainstream watches. No crowd pleasers, please. We like to issue remarkable, affordable and value-for-money watches (see also our principles). It's easy to copy existing watch designs. But why would we? What on earth is the point of copying a beautiful Rolex Submariner or a stunning IWC Portuguese? If we’re lucky, we might get close to equaling them – but we’ll certainly never surpass them. If you’d want a Submariner, then you’d buy one, wouldn’t you? With our watches, we like to add “something” to the watch landscape. For 2016, that “something” is a 24-hour one-hand mechanical watch. We give you the “Periscope” and think it hits the mark. For 2017, expect the unexpected (again), but let’s “do” the Periscope first ;-)!
Spec list & motivation
Limited to: 100 pieces (39 & 42 mm versions combined). Only 80 on Kickstarter, 20 via our own webshop. Why just 100 copies? We don't want to get rich, we want to take you down the road of enjoying beautiful watches. As we do. Furthermore, our watchmaker wants to take sufficient time to craft the watches for you guys. He works in a tiny atelier / workshop and does everything either by hand or by machines himself. Here you see a video of how we turn a watch case in our previous project the P1lot One. It gives you insight in how we work.
He doesn’t own a watch factory and doesn’t hire staff. He does it all by himself. This means he won’t be able to make 1,000 watches per year. Your Periscope will get the attention, love and care it deserves. This limitation also means that every SUBDELTA will be hyper exclusive. There will only be a maximum of 100 (one hundred) SUBDELTAs for sale annually, all individually numbered and personalized.
Design: Hans de Ree. Engineering & construction: Jan Binnendijk of DumeT Watches.
Click here for the 3D PDF file. Save it to your hard drive and look at the Periscope like you've never seen before.
Why do we love these watches ourselves?
We just love nautical, tactical and military timepieces. Since we’re Dutchmen, we needed to start off our commercial watch lives with something nautical. With the Periscope, we take you straigth to Holland’s submarine heritage. We’re world-famous for our “Walrus” submarines for instance. A periscope sticks out of a submarine to watch the surface of the seven seas, looking for hostile ships. The hallmark of a periscope is its crosshair: lines and circles to measure distances and to target ammunition in the right direction. We’ve embedded some sort of periscope in our watch dial. The crosshair is sandwiched and filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova, so it can be seen at night as well. There are very, very few watches with crosshair dials around.
Periscope 39: 39 mm x 13 mm (without crown), lug-to-lug: 48 mm.
Periscope 42: 42 mm x 14 mm (without crown), lug-to-lug: 51 mm.
Lug width: 22 mm for both versions. Crown: 10 x 4 mm for both versions. Water resistance: 6 ATM (or 60 m) for both versions.
Elegant, but present on the wrist for both him & her. Should you have small wrists, go for the 39 mm version and if you want/like/need a beefier watch, go for the 42 mm version. Yes: they’re quite thick, but a toolish watch should not be too flat either, should it?
SUB 2624-1 Dimensions: 11,5″ (“lignes”) Number of jewels (“rubis”): 24 Frequency: 18,000 per hour (5 ticks per second) Tested at: 6 positions Average deviation per day: -10+30 seconds Escapement: Swiss lever Power reserve: 40 hours Winding: manual and automatic (bi-directional).
We didn’t want to fit a stock ETA 2824-2 or a Miyota. Loads of other brands do that and they’re not that special (anymore). We wanted something unusual, something with a characterof its own, that would fit in the submarine theme very well. So we will fit a heavily modified and enhanced post-USSR 24-hour automatic Petrodvorets 2624 “no date” movement. Now, why do we fit a Russian movement, that is usually found in cheaper watches? Not only is this a stunning movement, it’s really, really good and they’ve made it eaven better for us. Petrodvorets has been investing a lot of time and money into the factory, its machines and its staff lately. They’ve even hired folks that used to work for ETA.
The Petrodvorets Watch Factory was founded by Peter the Great in 1721 and makes very sturdy and reliable movements with comparable quality and performance to most ETA movements. The factory has an open door policy and invites enthusiasts to come visit the factory, where everything is done under one roof. This too is something rather special.
The sturdy and viril looks of a Petrodvorets movement, its pedigree and origins and the fact that they have been making watch movements for almost three centuries (!), make that this particular brand and type are the first choice for the “Periscope”. In a 24-hour submarine-oriented watch, nothing suits better than a good old 24-hour Russian movement. Period. Our watchmaker reviewed a sample of the 2624 and says: “it’s a very reliable, technically impressive and heavily underrated movement with an acceptable daily deviation in seconds. The 2624 is one of Petrodvorets’ flagship movements and comes with so many modifications, that we’re allowed to rename it to SUB 2624-1.
Mechanics: disabled seconds and minutes axles, improved and polished balance wheel (compared to stock 2624) Plate: “dorage noir” decoration (a beautiful, gunmetal-deep graphite black galvanization). Visible bridges: “Côtes de Genève” and “dorage noir” decoration . Rotor: “dorage noir” decoration with engraved and painted SUBDELTA logo. Time reading: 24-hour one-hand (“Einzeiger”).
We think 24-hour watches are heavily underrated. A day has 24 hours, not 2 x 12 :-) So 24-hour watches make sense. We also think one-hand dials are very cool. We just love the way Meistersinger has set the standard by reducing the cluttered dials to the max. Love them. One-hand watches are quite easy to read and certainly once you get used to them… People will notice you’re wearing something quite special by the coffee machine at work. You’ll own a proper conversation starter!
Each quarter of an hour, half hour and full hour has an indication mark of its own. Of course, reading the time will not be as accurate as your smartphones, but you can read the time on this watch. You just can’t boil an egg with much precision, but then again, who cares?
Dial layout: sandwich dial with crosshair w/ Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous paint. The dial has a so-called “day & night” setup. The hours of the day are on the lower half of the dial (painted in submarine blueish/greenish) and the hours of the night are on the upper half of the dial (painted in pitch black). On pilot’s watches, this is usually the other way around (pilots call it a “virtual horizon”), but on the Periscope, it’s meant to distinguish day from night hours during long stays under the surface, where there’s no daylight. After a few days, sailors can’t tell whether it’s 4 o’clock at night or in the afternoon. With 24-hour watches, this is clear at a glance. The bright orange “lollipop” style hand resembles a scalepand makes it all the more toolish. We have used the historic DIN 30640 Grotesk Std Light font for all numerals by the way.
Grade 5 titanium
Main material: bead-blasted grade 5 titanium case, caseback, bezel, crown and buckle/needle Titanium comes in many qualities and strengths. We only use the highest possible grade: 5. Few metals are more durable, stronger and lighter than this one. A titanium watch typically weighs 50% of a stainless steel equivalent. Titanium gradually discolours over time (this is called “patina”) and gives the metal a personal and unique character. It’s a bit alive and gets rather dark compared to stainless steel. We’ll bead-blast and not polish it, so it becomes somewhat “velvety” as well (matte). The case of the Periscope has drilled lugholes by the way, so you’re able to switch straps fast and painless, without damaging the beautiful handbuilt titanium case. The titanium buckle will have a laserengraved SUBDELTA logo.
You will have two kick-ass straps for your Periscope, which can be changed by the included Bergeon 6767F.
Strap 1: exclusive black handmade leather strap by 7T2Straps.com Remie Beijer of 7TStraps.com is a renowned Dutch leather strap artisan. He also made 52 leather straps for the P1lot One (our previous project) and handsplit dozens of ’50s NOS Swiss leather belts. Remie means business and created a unique strap for the Periscope as well: a black leather strap, with mostly black and a little bit of bright orange stitching. The half circle on the strap resembles the ones on the dial. This beautiful handcrafted strap is exclusive for the Periscope. There will be three sizes: Small, Regular and Large. You can choose up to three (or no) uppercase initials in the “keeper” of the strap free of charge.
Strap 2: orange silicone strap “1968” by Isofrane with bead-blasted stainless steel buckle (type “retro sicuro”: needle with steeper angles for maximum safety) The one and only additional strap for a watch like this and absolutely the very best dive strap on the market today. Please Google Isofrane and see for yourself. There will be one size (“fits all”).
Sapphire front and back crystal with blueish AR coating on the inside Have you seen a watch where both the front AND back crystal is made of synthetic sapphire AND has AR coating on the inside? Thought so. The front crystal is double-domed @ approximately 2 mms of thickness. Double-domed means you have even less light reflections, enhanced by the AR coating on the inside. These crystals will looks very toolish, but not like a lens or a fisheye. The rear chrystal will be flat @ 1.5 mm or so.
Optionally, your initials will be stamped in the keeper of the leather strap (extra keeper provided, max. 3 uppercase letters) and your personal date between the lower lugs (8 digits). This can be seen on the 3D PDF. and the 3D render above.
What more could you wish for? Your Periscope will be a truly personal watch, a daily beater with your initials and personal date. The date is positioned on the case side, between the lower lugs, so you’ll always be able to see it at a glance (during a meeting for instance).
A stunning pitchblack, SUBDELTA-branded Nanuk 903 case with laser-customized foam interior. Who doesn’t know Nanuk? Honestly, we didn’t until recently. The Nanuk is just what the Periscope and SUBDELTA needs. This Canadian ultra heavy-duty case is waterproof (IP67-rated) and comes with a lifetime guarantee. Nanuk rocks.
What’s a “Periscope” anyway?
The name “Periscope” derives from submarines. True to their principles, all SUBDELTAs will be somewhat military, nautical and/or tactical. The “Periscope” is no exception. Now, what exactly is a periscope? It’s a long tubular device, sticking out of a submarine, which enables its crew to detect surface hostilities. A very handy device indeed. The hallmark of a periscope is its crosshair, used for pinpoint targeting. Sailors like to be able to tell the time. But… since they have no daylight, it’s hard to tell whether it’s 4 o’clock in the morning or afternoon, especially after a couple of shifts. Hence 24-hour watches. Since we just love one-hand AND 24-hour watches, we combined the two in a unique timepiece.
Why you want to own a handbuilt watch
If you have the funds, it’s not too hard to get hold of a famous watch. Make no mistake: we think famous watches are cool. People recognize them instantly and they make you look succesful. But… we believe it’s much more fun to crowdfund a personalized, handbuilt timepiece and add one to your collection. Backers of crowdfunded watches are part of the production and communication process and they will count down the weeks, days and hours until they finally get to wear it. A SUBDELTA will add something special to your personality and show others what you’re made of.
Full crowdfunding is required to start up production. A certain minimum number – will need to be sold and paid for entirely, before we can start up production. We will launch a webshop to facilitate sales and have a KS project.
Good news if we’re in this stage: we have liftoff! We will now buy all neccessary materials and components from various (inter)national suppliers and craftsmen. This will take a lot of time and will occur during the build stage as well, because some parts are not required right from the start.
When all materials and components are received by our watchmaker, we start building the SUBDELTAs. This will take approximately 6 months (June through to November). We know, it’s a long time, but you will be involved in each step in this process. Each SUBDELTA 2016 Limited Edition is numbered, making every watch unique and personal. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to reserve a particular build number. Communication stage Throughout all above-mentioned stages, we will keep our audience and backers posted. Backers receive more and more detailled intel though. That’s part of the SUBDELTA experience. Besides, the P1lot One audience has been very spoilt and the SUBDELTA audience expects nothing less :-)
Merry Christmas 2015!
All backers will receive their SUBDELTA 2016 Limited Edition before Christmas 2015. Wherever they live. By then, we’ve already unveiled the SUBDELTA 2017 Limited Edition, but… first thing first :-)
Risks and challenges
We have made handbuilt titanium watches in limited quantities before with the P1lot One project (www.p1lotone.nl) and have even more watchmaking experience besides this stunning remake of a WW2 pilot's watch.
We therefore know all our suppliers personally and interact with them on a regular basis. Since we've done this kind of watch before, we really know what we're doing. We take project management very seriously, as with communicating with our backers.Learn about accountability on Kickstarter
- (30 days)