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well my step father passed... and he was one of my main gaming partners who was looking forward to KD:M..... 2 1/2 years is a long time to wait.... really wish I could of had one game of KD:M with him.
Damn, nice skin, Corey.
Started the hair !
As things start winding down, the updates should pick up.... Optimistic still even after this long.
@ Ronald: Thank you too ^^ Awesome that you enjoy it.
@ smokeandoak: Thanks a lot, glad you like it. It's really good to see that it "tells the story".
@Edward - Tamiya is great (both the spray and the primer pot). I use it for all my KD stuff. No one debates its quality, but I'm not pouring through tons of the 2x+ more expensive primer on non-display grunt minis, touch ups on damaged models, and cheap tabletop scenery. I keep a few cans and pots of lesser brands just for those uses.
I'm still amazed people still struggle with what primer to use. It's Tamiya. That's the answer. It's not only the right color (grey), it can be sprayed in pretty much every weather except for under actual precipitation. Oh, just buy it on ebay if you can't find it in a store.
They used to be monthly before the stop due to the last steps for the kickstarter
@smokeandoak - I've had the same issue with Imperial Primer.
By the way, are the Kingdom Death releases usually monthly, if they are regular at all ?
@ Sven - That is one creepy creeping baby, definitely adds to the character of the king. Having a being seeming to join him voluntarily makes him seem even more imposing and powerful.
On a side note has anyone ever had success with the GW Technical Imperial Primer? Every pot I've had including quite a few replacements has spoiled in the exact same manner. Some of the replacements even came spoiled and had to be replaced right away. At this point I'm already moving on to Vallejo primers at Donald's recommendation, I was just curious if anyone else had noticed this trend.
I just hope people that use the cheap shipping don't expect KD to replace any missing shipments. That is the gamble they take when they don't pay for tracking and insurance.
Some of us will be happy to notice that the standard International Shipping is back on the shop. Still no idea if that was a glitch or a change of policy, re-changed after the comments. Anyway, that's cool.
Nightmare ram Skin finished
@Sven : if anything, adding that to the King makes it even more disturbing... Love it. :D
Got a little Sneak Peek for you on what's going to be shown on my blog soonish:
The little guy was the first thing I ever sculpted from scratch. What do you think about it?
Also, looking at that Antelope and the great swathes of skin, and thinking about your Flower Witch, I'm trying to emulate your and Scott's approach to skin as well as Tom Kolodziej's (Mini Brush Studio) as I try to level up my painting for fulfillment. Thanks Corey for the breakdown you posted a bit earlier, and thanks Scott for the great tutorials on the KD page.
I have been using that to listen to them while I paint, just for any other learners interested. :)
Yea I'm excited about the game but want to see more details. To be honest the excitement for me is more about the fantasy setting in general rather than the GW franchise. I hope it's at least 2 parts TW to 1 part GW, epic masses of fantasy creatures and a few magic explosions etc., something like that. @ Esoba - Tolkien total war would indeed be epic as well. @ Scott - Good luck! @ Corey - That already freaks me out.
Just like with Rome Total War 2, it looks like I will be waiting for enough dlc to be released to make an actual complete game, and for it to all go on sale for a reasonable price.
After a bit of research my enthusiasm for TW Warhammer has waned a bit. The current playable faction list is a joke: Orcs/Goblins, Dwarves, Vampire Counts, and "probably" Empire. No chaos, elves, skaven, etc... No doubt they will be released as dlc overtime. Every other Total War had tons of playable factions from day one. I smell GW's greedy influence.
Total War Warhammer will be amazing! I had he mod for one of the old games, it was pretty cool seeing a thousand elves line up for battle. But an official game will be much more complete.
Looks good Corey. The airbrush trick on the base looks familiar too... ;)
Just thought I'd pop in to say hello. Not dead (yet), and will be at Salute this weekend in London (ExCel centre). I may be putting something Kingdom Death related into the painting competition, but I'll also have some others that I'll just carry in my box for sitting and chatting about. So, if you are about, do tap me on the shoulder and say hello :)
(I should be wandering around with a silver box and most likely a Hasslefree T-Shirt with my name on - though I'm not working for HF this year...)
Progress on Nightmare ram
That'll be pretty sweet...now total war Tolkien would be the shiz
That could be cool. I guess they want to branch out from historically based games.
!! Total war: Warhammer announced
Makes me wonder what kind of blood sacrifice the minis in the KDM box will demand.
Something like that. ;)
Gota baptize it in blood
@Corey: that always tends to happen doesn't it? It's like fresh blades are attracted to flesh or something. :D
So changed the blade on my hobby knife last night and while cleaning the nightmare ram it went right into my finger.
@Corey, looking forward to seeing what you do with the Nightmare Ram. Mine is still in the box it came in...too many Ysians and Welsh to paint currently...
also guess who's next
GW paints Ratskin flesh, Cadian Fleshtone, and Kislev Flesh. start with the darkest and mix lighter ones in while keeping it about 50/50 paint/thinner. In all about 5 thin layers each one covering less to highlight different areas. Also sometimes a layer of Kislev Flesh/ Pallid Wych Flesh if you want super light skin.
@corey you will have to share the secret to your wonderful skin tones. What paints are you using for those?
yay new stuff came in :D
That's really nice, Corey - great skin.
Man those hands in the hair are creepy. First time I noticed. Nice paintjob. Interesting approach on the basing.
Finally Finished my Flower witch
It took me a couple tries but Joe sorted out my pledge manager issues as well.
i think Anna does the pledge manager stuff
@ Anthony - I had a similar issue with my pledge not updating back before the PM closed. If you're concerned I would try Joe (Joe@kingdomdeath.com), and he can probably send you an updated list of your pledge or direct you to someone who can. Probably he can I just forgot who responded to me at the time. To ease your mind, my pledge was correctly updated, it had just not been reflected for some reason, after hearing back the expansions I added were confirmed via email and are now properly listed.
I remember this conversation happening once before - did anyone else not get an update in the pledge manager for the most recent open period? I added a bunch more stuff, but it's not reflected in the manager, and I can't find an email receipt.
The game air primers use the same polyurethane mix by the way, so those will work about the same, but they're available in bolder colours (bright blue, bright red, bone and silver), which can come in handy, the Model Air ones are primarily military colours, as well as white, grey and black.
The only downside is that currently these Game Air primers aren't available in the larger bottles. ;) A 17mL bottle will be empty quicker than you think, 60 mL the Model Air ones come in will last a long time. :D
@ Ronald - Wow, thanks, exactly the info I was looking for! Really appreciate the details and process. Super, super helpful!
@smokeandoak: Those are indeed the Model Air primers (http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/primers/family/22), apart from the colours they're all based on essentially the same mix of polyurethane resin and binders, so they all pretty much act the same. I think I have most colours by now, and they're all easy to work with.
The white is a little translucent, so you're usually needed to apply multiple thin coats to get it to cover completely, but all the others are really solid in terms of coverage.
Acrylic thinner (Vallejo, Golden, Createx, you name it, just remember to get acrylic airbrush thinner, not lacquer or oil based thinner) and water will generally work just fine (distilled water is cheaper than acrylic thinner, just don't thin too far, as you're thinning the binding agent too).
Tamiya X-20 Thinner is also quite nice, provided you can find any, but it is Isopropyl alcohol based, it's best used with Tamiya paints, it doesn't always play nice with other brands of acrylic paint, so test first if you wish to try it, if it turns goopy with your paint, don't mix it in your brush.
As for cleaning, get some cleaner meant for acrylic airbrush paints: Vallejo, Createx (which should be easier to find in the US), or try and find a local airbrush store and see what they recommend, they may have cheaper alternatives available.
The stuff I use is made locally for the store I get it from, and it's essentially sunflower oil and distilled water, works really well though, and it's cheap too.
Rubbing Alcohol you can use for finishing off the last bits of cleaning, just rinse it out with water afterwards (the rubber rings in the brush will thank you for it).
Alcohol and Acrylics are not friends in most cases. ;)
Never add pure alcohol to wet acrylic paints in your brush, you'll destroy your brush if you're not careful, the gunk is almost impossible to clean out.
As for my cleaning process for when I'm done: first I rinse out the cup and nozzle with airbrush cleaner (using cotton swabs to attack dried bits of paint if they stay put). Then I usually disassemble my brush to clean the needle, get into nooks and crannies with cotton swabs dipped in airbrush cleaner and rinse it all off in some distilled water. Once I'm happy with the result (ie. it's spotless and squeaky clean), I reassemble the airbrush and store it until the next use.
When switching paints, I usually rinse out the cup with airbrush cleaner, again using swabs as needed to get residue out, then rinse it out with a good deal of water, and once that flows through cleanly, I switch to the next paint.
One last thing to keep in mind for later (assuming you don't go whole hog right away), don't mix or alternate between solvent based paints (enamels and the like) and acrylics.
Both types of paint will leave behind some residual chemicals (even when you clean really well) that react quite strongly with the other type, meaning that you may damage or badly clog your brush. I bought a cheap second brush that I only use for my solvent based paints to avoid this issue.
Woops, sorry for the long winded response, hope you get some useful info out of it. :)
Finally this stupid dog is dead!
@ Ronald - Thanks! Are those the 'model' air primers? I see there is a set of 'game' air primers as well now. Apart from the different colors in those lines is there a difference in behavior? I'm going to grab a cheap air brush as well to try mixing my own using the vallejo thinner and experiment thinning with water etc. Any tips for cleaning or using the thinner with the vallejo varnishes?
It sounds like alcohol and/or a basic cleaner will be a good start for maintenance and cleaning, got a favorite method for that? Thanks again!