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Try Twitter , I see pimoroni tweets often.
Maybe someone from Pimoroni could answer this?
I've tried emailing in the past. (With no replying) Namely about the fact that my screen is scratched. That the cabinet wasn't predrilled, a later update stated that the little marks were never meant to be drilled, which means that my cabinet has holes in it that shouldn't be there.
I couldn't really care less about any of this. But I REALLY WOULD LIKE SOME GAMES TO PLAY ON HERE.
Strangely. I bought a bottle opener and some others bits and bobs from your website, and that worked just fine.
Can you help? Please?
Did Pimoroni ever come up with the games package that they promised would come with this? My kids still can't really play on this as we don't really have an easy way of getting this up and running
Whatever happened to the indie games freebe?
Answering my own question here - I posted in June that an Intel NUC connected to the Picade wasn't outputting any sound. I eventually got round to putting in a noise filter (specifically a "ground loop noise isolator") and it's now working. It does look like there's some loose voltage which was making the NUC think that a mic was plugged in - might be an issue with any device that has a "smart" 3.5mm socket of that type.
I see on twitter a new PCB is coming out
I'm having issues getting my Picade PCB to work. It keeps flashing the white power LED, and making a popping sound in the speakers. I tried disconnecting the speakers, and it flashes faster, but otherwise no difference.
Plugging it into my laptop (OS X), I get errors about "The IOUSBFamily was not able to enumerate a device", leading me to think it's just stuck in a reset-loop.
I've checked that there are no crossed wires, and that the spades are on tight. Not sure how to proceed from here.
SteveH, Ok I'll google that. Tnx.
I think this would be cool to have for the Picade :
ROMnation is your friend
Where can I find a ROM of Donkey Kong? The original arcade version.
Ok too, sound is now here. The cable was ok after all, so I had a better look at the speakers connections, and they were indeed a bit loose. I did unscrewed and rescrewed both and it's now ok. Never loose faith :)
OK, it turns out I had only tested the buttons. When I got home last night I took the picade apart and tested everything. I found out that the buttons and PCB ports worked but the wires didn't. I'm very happy now. It really is a great product - well worth the wait!
It sounds to me like youve tested the buttons and loom already in another port. I would get a piece of wire connected to the gnd terminal, fire up a text editor and touch the other end of the wire to the metal of the screw terminals of the ports that arent working. If you dont get a letter output your pcb may need the software uploading again? Or - you are not using the right ports for the two extra buttons? Check the big bad wiring diagram in detail.
Answering myself, by looking at the source code for the picade controller I can see that the extra maxi buttons should be c and v.
What does a crimped loom look like and how can I test/fix it?
@Thomas Looten. Thanks for the info. The buttons that don't work for me are the two furthest to the right. I have it hooked up to a keyboard tester so I can see which keys are being pressed and for the other buttons do see things like shift/ctrl etc.
Do you know what the two buttons furthest right (the extra maxi buttons that connect to the PCB on their own) are meant to output?
I hooked up my pi to the PCB and didn't get any sound. If I hooked up my iphone to the PCB and played music I did hear sound. I replaced the supplied cable with one I had lying about and that fixed the problem for me. Sound from pi to PCB and then to speakers. It would be nice if I could get sound from the monitor and hdmi to the PCB.
@Nick: at least I though that three buttons didn't work (the two on the left and the top one just by them), because they were not procuding any output in the console, but I finally realized that they were mapped to Shift, Control and Alt, and working well after all :)
Your issue reminds me my mistake (of course you may also have a real connection issue, but I confirm I didn't do anything special to have them working, once I knew what they were supposed to do).
SteveH, thanks for the info. I'll have a look at that tonight.
While you are here, do you remember if you had to do anything special to the PCB to get the extra two maxi buttons working?
I got my Picade one week ago and have been busy building it and trying to get it to work since with a fully updated Pi + latest PiPlay + Lateo scripts. I'm quite happy with the result, but still have a few issues:
Attaching LCD commands: exactly as Nick (two comments below), It seems there's no M3 bolts long enough to match the wood + acrylic + nut. However, there are a very long few plastic bolts included, which I used for the Pi itself. Well, they could probably do the job, but are not very nice looking.
Sound: no matter what I try, I can't have the PCB outputing sound. If the audio cable is not connected at all, I have a humming sound (proving that the speakers are at least connected), which completely disappears when the audio cable is there (even if the other end is not connected). So far so good.
Not sure if the other end is supposed to be connected to the Pi analog output or the one from the LCD board, but I suppose both should work, provided it's consistent with the setting in raspi-config. If I select "analog" and connect a headset to the Pi, I do have sound. If I connect the supplied audio cable (one end on the PCB, the other on the Pi), changing nothing else, I don't.
So far, I have two hypothesis:
- the supplied audio cable may be somehow faulty. It looks brand new and not damaged at all, but it's worth a test.
- the PCB has some internal "volume setting" that is set to zero, and I can't find how to modify it, or there's an issue with my PCB (but it works perfectly otherwise, driving the buttons and joystick).
I still have a few test ideas, but any hint or insight is warmly welcomed :D
Nick I think I found there were not enough long screws in the pack and ended up buying some from the hardware store.... don't use the long screws on the PCB.... save them for the LCD control panel ... then just get some extra screws for the PCB.
Hi all. I'm trying to put together my maxi and am just about done but seem to have a couple of problems.
Firstly the extra 2 buttons for the maxi don't seem to register. The buttons themselves are working because I've attached them to another port temporarily on the board but when I attach them to the ports shown as Maxi Only on the diagram, they don't register. Any ideas?
Second, in the Finesse section I'm trying to attach the LCD keypad buttons. Once I have put the acrylic retainer on the M3 bolts are nowhere near long enough to get through the case and past the retainer to leave enough space to put a nut on. Am I doing something wrong or are the M3 bolts too short?
Have put the Maxi together and it's terrific! Great build, found the instructions to be a bit lacking at times but not hard to do. Anyone had issues with the smell of the unit? After some period using ours and the heat inside the cabinet... it does emit a bit of paint smell which isn't very nice....
Good news I finally got (on Monday) my delivery of the Picade Maxi (last tier)
I can't wait to start putting it together - this weekend.
Thank you Team Pimoroni
Hopefully this KS has proved the concept, the market, and you will have a follow-on batch for general commercial release.
Should probably say that the OS on the NUC is currently Windows 8.1, just in case it matters...
Hi folks. Wondering if anyone has an Intel NUC (DN2820FYKH in my guess) connected to a Mini? My Mini works fine with a Pi, but on connecting up the NUC everything works bar the sound. If I connect up headphones to the NUC I get sound, if I connect my iPhone to the lead connected to the Mini, I get sound - but if I connect that same lead to the NUC I get silence, even if I use a 4-pin to 2x 3-pin adaptor. If I had to guess it's almost as if some loose current on the line-in port was causing the NUC to think it had a mic attached? Anyone have any ideas...?
Finally got mine in. Had some bad crimps and had to rewire a bit but I have the pi hooked up in the picade. Can't get sound working though. Does the sound come across the hdmi and then come out of the video board or do I connect the pi's audio jack directly to the controller board? Neither is working for me.
My mini itx is installed on the door. It has a pico psu plugged in and some zip tie mounts (plastic, sticky back things you can zip tie to) to tidy up the wiring. That all fits in the footprint of the door. From there I made a custom wiring loom to run power to the lcd board and marquee lights. Hdd (ssd) is velcroed under the lcd. Did away with power and hdd leds. Did away with reset switch. Found a small red pushbutton from arcade world uk that fits the holes in the back perfectly. There are two to keep it looking nice - one at the top of each alien antenna. Just clears the board. One is unused. The other is power on/off to the mobo.
Just assembled my Maxi, what arrived on monday.
Really with the wait, it's gorgeous. While assembly was not quite as straight forward as Ikea, it was quite simple.
Thanks a lot for this AWSOME kickstarter.
Now all I've to decide is wether to get a mini-itx with some Windows/Linux based fronted, stick with the Raspberry/PiPlay or use something in-between like the BeagleBone-Black or a BananaPi or CuBox-i.
Has anyone a suggestion how to install a mini-itx and a matching power supply?
I think everyone has had static issues. After swearing a little and trying this and that somehow it's gone. In my case I think the pcb just needed to be attached to cab so wires would not move. I also clipped (shorten) my wires so they were tight.
Just a side note: the PCB audio amplifier (connected with the two speakers) perfectly works, when it's plugged in my PI or any other device, like my ipad. It only gives a static noise when it's NOT connected, but as soon as I plug it in a 3.5 jack it behaves correctly.
Thanks Bob, but unluckily Win7 doesn't "sense" the device at all. When I plug it in whatever usb slot, the PSB switches on (led up) but Win7 doesn't look for any usb drivers, nor say (looking within usb connected devices in device manager) that there's an unknown device connectd. It behaves like an usb device that you only connect for giving it power, not to exchange data...
Windows recognized it as unknown device but it works
Meanwhile... solving the PCB problem (I've unsuccesfully tried this: https://github.com/rktrlng/picade_lufa) I've ordered an ODROID U3, just to have some more power inside ;) Planning to setup an ODROID GameStation Turbo with XBMC.
Excellent! Received and built up my MINI... it's really gorgeous!
But... a problem: the Picade PCB lights up (the led is on) but is not recognised, not in Linux and not in Win7. I've try to understand if I could re-flash the firmware (using my Raspberry with PiPlay) but I couldn't: Linux cannot see the /dev/ttyACM0 device to manage the firmware update... Have you got any idea to help me understanding if I can solve the situation or I've received a bugged PCB? Thanks!
Hurrah! My Maxi should arrive Monday! :D
Finally managed to update my Arduino PCB & re-map the some of keys and make use of the 6 button possibilities. Had to get friendly with Ubuntu though - wouldn't play ball at all in Win 8, which I think is what others had found.
Anyway, here's a (not so) quick vid with some of the other hardware & software updates I've made...
In case anyone is interested I'm running a core i3 low tdp (35w) with a zalman low profile cooler. Fits fine. Also went for a pico psu to keep the heat out of the cabinet. Im running with no additional cooling just fine. Also with wireless keyboard/mouse and marquee lighting, lcd all running off the pico psu I have one power cable out the back.
@Markus I had not even thought about the Steam games. Good point. I have been looking at the i3/i4 Haswell NUCs. The prepackaged Computer-In-A-Box has a nice appeal due to my laziness :)
@David The most oomph you'll probably get from a 'low power' Intel i3 (the T model has a max TDP of 35W). The new AMD AM1 Kabini looks promising as well (25W TDP) and is much cheaper. Or a Chromebox (15W TDP) where you should be able to run Linux on it.
In case you're looking for something cheaper and cooler, there's the ARM based ODROID-U3 (Cortex-A9 1.7GHz Quad-Core ).
Not easy, depends what you're going to use it for. My decisive factor was that I wanted to play some Steam games as well, so ARM was out of the question. Otherwise I'd most likely chose the ODROID...
@Markus You are right. Looking for more oomph than a pie. Looking to run MAME without having to deal with overheating or being underpowered.
@David what do you have in mind? I guess something more powerful than a Pi... Arm based or x86? I chose a Gigabyte Mini-ITX GA-F2A88XN-WIFI with an AMD A4-5300 APU, that will be upgraded to a way more powerful and less power hungry A8-7600 once available. I'm positively surprised by the A4, it can handle quite a few games and MAME runs flawlessly.
@Christos an Intel NUC will certainly fit inside. I mounted a much bigger Mini-ITX motherboard with a 64mm high cooler on the bottom panel.
anyone know if Intel NUC D54250WYKH can fit in the Maxi?
I love my picade, as my wife shakes her head in disbelief.
Mine showed up yesterday. It is this weekends project. :)
Just throwing an FYI out there for others waiting...I received a TEXT MESSAGE from DHL on Wednesday May 21st indicating I had some sort of package from the UK on its way. In a single day, the shipment traversed around the UK and left Heathrow airport, made it to the U.S., found its way TO and THROUGH the customs clearance center in Cincinnati, Ohio, and then onward to Austin, Texas. I love DHL sometimes....especially for incoming overseas shipments.
Anyway, everything looks like it arrives intact. I had pledges towards the Maxi (at the last £192 tier level) with the 4:3 ratio screen. I'm still trying to dig up all the latest assembly guides, manuals, software, etc., but it appears like a fun and easy build after a quick scan through the parts. Interestingly enough, the Pimoroni site doesn't contain any support content for the PiCade...beyond some shopping cart options for upgrading your pledge to a higher tier reward. Did manage to google and find a limited github repository with some stuff for PiCade, though it seemed a bit lacking in all the details one might desire for a successful build.
Just wanted to let folks (still waiting) know that there is hope for arrival of your rewards soon and the results look to be worth the wait. If I can amass all the latest support content and community knowledge from somewhere, I will attempt my build this weekend and report back with any problems, feedback, tips, and so forth.
Can anyone recommend some decent motherboard configs?
Can anyone recommend a USB WiFi dongle for the Pi?
My requirements are that it must fit into the Pi's USB slot alongside the Picade USB plug and that it must be easy to setup.
Any advice on drilling additional holes? I just can't find the referred section about drilling holes in the manual...
I'd start drilling from the outside with a small driller and then gradually increase the diameter. Does that work or is there a better way?
Still battling the sound issue. Trying different setups and cables. I'm thinking it might be the picade controller board causing the issue. Possibly....
I have received my Maxi a week ago and it was worth the wait! It was simple to build thanks to the well laid out instructions. The 4:3 screen is quite nice despite its rather low resolution ;-) The only issues I faced were two bad crimps (buttons not working) - easily fixed with soldering - and the same audio issues from the HDMI driver board mentioned by Chris: static, humming, cracking noises. I assume it’s either bad/insufficient shielding or the circuit itself. Also the output seems way too high from the driver board. Setting it to 4/100 is enough! Well, I gave up and connected the audio to the analog out of my Mini-ITX board. All issues gone! No static, nothing, as it should be :-) Which means the Picade board is ok and the static definitely comes from the HDMI driver board…
Now I’m starting on the software part. First with rewriting the Picade board to easily switch between a keyboard / gamepad / joystick emulation without reflashing. Most likely by implementing a USB HID combination device and using an additional button to activate either or device on the fly… then I’d like to add different key mappings, either simply through multiple switchable profiles or with an on-the-fly remap through the USB serial line… I’ve already implemented parts of it in another project on an Arduino clone, so I’m quite confident to get it working. Just to find enough time is an issue…
Oh and there’s the speaker volume control as well: re-mapping the 2 volume HDMI driver board buttons to the Arduino and emulate keyboard Vol up/down keypresses + an additional button for mute. Lots of ideas for sure!
My setup in case anyone else is still wondering what can be put in a Picade other than a Pi:
Mini-ITX GA-F2A88XN-WIFI with an AMD A4-5300 APU (still waiting for A8-7600…) mounted on the bottom since it’s too heavy for the door.
Scythe Scsk-1100 cooler (got fooled by its ‘only 64mm in height’ claim - it’s a snug fit in the Maxi, but it’s a nice quiet cooler).
150W Pico ATX PSU with an external 12V 10A power supply, no-name from ebay.