Test Fixture Development
Thanks to everyone who's backing Teensy 3.0. Your support means a lot. I've tried to balance responding to questions and continuing to develop this project, so we'll be ready to ship boards this month. It's looking like we'll begin shipping the 1st batch within a week of the kickstarter end data.
Here's an update on the behind-the-scenes work going on.
I've spent the last several days building and programming the "bed-of-nails" test fixture that we'll be using to test every Teensy 3.0 board. The hardware was designed many weeks ago, but the PCBs only recently arrived. Here it is:
From a usage perspective, the test is simple. Just press the board onto the spring-loaded pins, and within a second either the green or red LED lights up. Hopefully it's the green one!
Over the last few days, I've heard comments from people who've been burned by other kickstarter hardware projects that failed to deliver. Manufacturing and testing a new product in volume is a challenge. I've been doing this for many years, but so far never published anything about how we test Teensy 2.0 and other boards. Hopefully sharing these details about the test process might help other projects?
The most interesting part is probably the "nails" section. Here's another photo:
The pins are part numbers S-100-K-3.5-G and S-50C-TL-3.2-DG-S. Both can be purchased from Mouser Electronics. The 2 boards were ordered from Laen's OSH Park http://www.oshpark.com/ Laen's PCBs work particularly well, because they're from a USA-based manufacturer with much higher accuracy drilling than other low cost services. For placing the test pins, this matters greatly. Here's a test board Laen shared with me, where you can really see the difference: (larger image: http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/beta/pcb_compare.jpg )
Edit: Just to be clear, these photos where provided by Laen from OSH Park (a summary appearing on Hack-a-Day might imply I made these boards, but they are in fact from Laen). Laen lives here in Portland and he brought these test boards to a local Dorkbot meetup. I saw them with my own eyes. Indeed the purple board has much higher drill accuracy.
Here's some more info from Laen:
- Those are supposed to be 13 mil drills with a 7 mil annular ring.
- Seeed averaged 17 mil holes, and an average offset of 4 mils. They also extended the soldermask all over the place. All 10 boards passed with no shorts or breaks. Soldermask-to-copper registration was about 7 mils. Seed requires 8 mil drill-to-copper clearance, and rejected my first board which had only 2.5 mil drill-to-copper clearance.
- iTead averaged 12 mil holes but had an average offset of 7 mils, and coated all of them with silkscreen. 7 out of 10 of my boards had shorts, even though I'd paid for "100% E-Testing". To their credit, they offered a full refund. Seed requires 6 mil drill-to-copper clearance, and rejected my first board which had only 2.5 mil clearance.
- OSHPark averaged 12 mil holes and had an average offset of under 1 mil. Soldermask was correct, and had a soldermask to copper registration of 2 mils. The fab is allowed up to a 3 mil drill-to-copper clearance. In practice, I've never seen it more than 2 mils off.
To build this top section, the 2 boards are bolted together with standoffs. I also temporarily add standoffs on the top side, which makes for easy soldering all the pins at exactly the same height.
Each pin is inserted from top side. The PCB holes are a very close fit, so the larger head on each pin won't fit through the holes. It has to inserted from the top. Then the whole thing is turned upside down, where the temporary standoffs hold the top board at the correct height. Then the pin is soldered first on the bottom side. Here's how that looks:
This top section is just the pins and 2 LEDs. There no electronics. The pins are very strong and last a long time, but if something does go wrong, this assembly is pretty much impossible to service. When I started using this approach, soldering the pins between 2 PCBs, I quickly learned it's best to dedicate 2 boards to the pins. Usually little changes end up being needed in the electronics, so it's best to keep the electronics separate so you can unplug the (expensive) pins if the circuitry needs work. If you later decide to build different electronics for the test, the (expensive) pins can be reused.
For Teensy 3.0, I went with 2 boards for the electronics. Here's the next board:
Those 7 chips are 74VHC595 shift registers. Almost every pin is driven by those shift registers. Most of the test consists of driving all the pins with known patterns (1 pin low, all others high, and then 1 pin high, all others low, repeated for every pin).
On the right hand side is the board presence detection circuit. When the fixture is waiting for a new board, all the ground pins are connected but all the power pins are off. The detection circuit applies 44 mV to one of the power pins, and looks for 22 mV or more on another power pin. If there's interest, I could post a schematic and description. It's just a simple 2-opamp circuit. The detect pin is placed about 1/16 inch lower than all the other pins, so the board is detected when that last pin touches and all the others are already engaged.
There's more parts on the back side the deserve a little mention.
Every signal pin has 1K resistor in series, which limits the current in case the PCB under test has shorts or other unforeseen errors.
There's a MOSFET transistor controlling every power and ground pin. Before test, all the ground pins are on, all the power are off. Once a board is detected, all the power pins are turned on. The first test initiates communication with the board, and then turns off power to all but 1 power pin, and cycles through each one to verify each is able to power the board. Then all the Vcc pins are turned on and that process is repeated for every ground pin, so verify each is connected.
After all power pins are checked, the signal pins are verified by driving a huge number of patterns and reading them back from the processor. Teensy 3.0 has 5 analog-only pins (4 analog-only inputs and 1 for an external reference). To test those, analog signals are created by low-pass filtering PWM. The sections where resistors and capacitors are mixed are 2-pole filters. The first stage is 1K and 100nF, and the second stage is 10K and 10nF. That's approximately a 100 us settling time, so it only takes about 0.5 ms to establish a new voltage. The PWM used is 500 kHz carrier with only 16 steps, which is plenty of resolution for applying test voltages. The goal is not to test Teensy 3.0's full analog resolution, but to verify that absolutely every pin is connected and none are shorted. As long as all 5 can be driven to distinctly different voltages, the test is valid.
The bottom board is probably the least interesting, just a Teensy++ 2.0 (modified for 3 volts) controlling the entire test, and a 3.3 volt power supply.
While this test fixture follows the same basic design as the one we use for Teensy 2.0, it's still a substantial project in and of itself. I've been working the last couple days to get the code finished. When working on this sort of thing, you can't keep holding a board on those pins. Here's the "test for the tester" board.
Yesterday I finished all the code which sequences the pins and turns the power on/off to each Vcc and GND pin. Today's work is reading them back from this board, so I can compare and make sure every single bit matches on every test.
This test fixture is actually 1 of 2 tests. The 2nd test uses a USB cable, a little USB signal switcher and power measurement circuit, and a Linux-based computer (the same hardware we use today for Teensy 2.0 will work for 3.0). It programs the default firmware, measures the board's current with and without the LED on, and requires the user to press the pushbutton... so the final bits of hardware that can't be tested on the bed-of-nails are all fully verified. If there's interest and I have time, I could post another update about that 2nd test.
When we get the first batch of boards back, hopefully in just a little over a week, every single one will be fully tested.
Again, thank you for backing Teensy 3.0. :-)
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