Use this space to cheer the creator along, and talk to your fellow backers.
Have a question?
First pass of all the videos without the voice over first. If you have any questions in the mean time you're welcome to email or ask in the forum.
Thank you for instant comment. I am glad i figured it out right.
Do you plan to ad voice over to your vids?
Maybe some pointers to crucial points during assembly written somewhere on the printer page would be helpful to newbs like me. :-)
Hi Karel. Glad it arrived without incident. The reshipping process was very transparent from my end and I would not of even known unless you told me. Pretty cool.
Yes. The set screws act as a pole piece to direct the magnetic field and can double its attraction to the ball. The closer to the ball without touching the greater the field strength where it matters.
Hi Billy. I got the printer on Monday this week. Good job with packing everything together. Everything came in good shape. As you know, I had the package resent by mail forwarder Shipito.
I started the assembly yesterday. As a newbie I have some questions.
For now, I would like to know how exactly I should set up the
M5x6 set cup ferrous screws. I set it the way the ball does not drag on the tip of screw and it just sits fully in the magnet bowl. Any advice/comment?
Received my award :)
Really this has been a nearly perfect campaign. (Okay, more official updates would have been nice ;) but the updates from Billy via Google+ and e-mail have been great.)
BTW, for those still monitoring here, most conversation is now in google groups (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/polygon-delta-3d-printer) and first draft of instructional videos are available on Billy's polygonrobotics.com site.
Full disclosure: I have NO connection to this product and have not used it.
"The Palette" let you print in multi color or colour for our international friends with the printer you already have.
At only $1k we can all have one (OK I really hope the sarcasm was clear here the price is really steep but it's sooo kewl) I'm sure others will build better faster more affordable devices sooner or later.
this thing looks so interesting you should check it out. The Palette http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/741-Hello-The-Palette!
Nunyafb Izness. Thanks for putting together a non-official forum. As for a trademark, those are automatic in the US.
Billy did you at least submit for a Tm (trade mark) on your version of this printer?
With Billy's permission I started an unofficial forum here and look forward to meeting everyone there with new ideas.
Dude. I fiddled with the permissions and checked an override to allow you to post.
If the google group isn't going to work for everyone I'll move it. I'll look into other options.
Btw, I should add that I will not be posting anymore on the Google+ forum anymore.
Google+ terminated my account because the **********'s in charge of Google+ still don't have a clue on why it's *very bad* for some people to have their names directly associated with any public comment/forum. Hey ask Ruth Ginsberg! If she wasn't a supreme court judge, she would've likely been fired for her (imho) slight mistake.
Apparently, Google+ didn't like the fact that my full legal name isn't "Dude".
That power supply, and most by that company, have too high of a yearly volume to be produced in America without incurring a non-trivial price increase.
Long Answer: :-)
Translation: It would cost and extra $25 to $50+ to have in assembled in America.
The cost difference between domestic and China production for things like power supplies has grown a lot over the past 10 years. Without getting into details, even for power supplies in the low 5 digits (10K+ units/year), the price difference is noticeable.
Fwiw, having something assembled in China does not mean low quailty. The company decides on the design, the parts, the quality checks, and the place that will do the assembly.
Yes, it is possible to find low-end assembly places in China. Those places are what often build the cheap Amazon and ebay low cost items. So, even if the design is good, the parts are high quality (which often is *not* the case for low end items selling by cost), then a bad assembly place can make an otherwise good item unsafe and unreliable.
Iirc, the VU Qi charger, another kickstarter project, had some initial problem with poor assembly. They either switched places, or fixed the problems.
Unless something is for the military, there's a good chance that anything made in any sort of volume is made in places like China.
So yea, all of the "BS posturing" done by China and the USA over missiles/etc is a lot of posturing. China needs the USA market (the largest by far) so that their unemployment rate doesn't go even higher. And, the lower cost of items because of being assembled in China means that the people in the USA have more buying power, and don't have spend more money on things like clothes, shoes, TVs, cellphones, computers, etc, etc.
As an engineer seeing a *lot* of engineering and high-tech jobs going to India, China, etc, I also want to keep as much work in the USA as possible. But, unlike some people (cough cough - 99% of the politicians ;-), I also care what's better for the people of the country overall. So, I'm torn between keeping manufacturing here, or being like a lot of Europe, and having something like a "VAT" (Value Added Tax - a "tax/fine" for items produced/shipped out of the country).
I've done consulting work for a lot of company's over the past dozen+ years. The offshore assembly has become more and more prevalent. With faster global internet and video conferencing, a lot of engineering and hi-tech work is going to India and the manufacturing is going to China.
I guess nothing is made In the USA anymore. I ordered the power supply mentioned earlier in the comments from digikey. On the packing slip, in nice big letters, "COO: China". I assume coo means county of origin, of course I could be wrong lol.
I've been trying to isolate the face plane in Solidworks after importing the STL file into a sketch. Once I do that the plan is to export as a dxf file so I can work in AutoCAD, where I'm at least 2d competent. I'll probably need to wait until a friend who has a clue in SW returns from vacation. It's not a big concern, though, I'll use a Dremel tool if I have to.
Hi John. I gave it a try in onshape but it does not import STL. It might be possible to convert to STL and then import. I think the best bet might be fusion 360 though (which I don't have installed.) I believe you can import the STL and then project the face directly onto a sketch. Once a proper sketch you can just export it.
Speaking of fusion 360. I just got an email from Autodesk saying a year subscription is going to be $25 on the Amazon Prime day. There is a free trial you can play with until then.
The difference is that the Duet Wifi has a cutout for the wifi antenna instead of an ethernet port but the spacing for the other connectors is the same. I have scad files of both and am working on trying to convert that connector opening outine to a file for laser cutting but am a novice at Solidworks. If anybody that can help extract those outlines, it would be appreciated. The files can be found here:
I think it makes sense for me to post a video showing how the upper compartment is arranged. It will give everyone a better understanding of what makes sense and what might not make sense for their particular print controllers. I'm travelling at the moment so it'll be early next week before it is posted.
If we ordered the duet wifi do we need a different layout?
I sent Billy an openscad panel cut out file for
for the connectors on the Duet Wifi board edge.
I pre-ordered the DuetWifi as well. It's good that there will be a few other people using the same board.
Hi Alex. That should be pretty much it. One of the questions in the survey will be asking about what connectors people will need to plug into their boards. While unfortunately there is still not a defacto standard there are only a few common types. It's my intention to include what backers need if their board does not include them.
Thanks for posting about the DuetWifi. I had decided on a Duet and was just about to order but opted to go for this one instead of v0.8.5
I just received my Smoothieboard and Display set, and 3 x 1 kilo of different filament. Aside from the 24v power supply, what else might I need (or want)?
I just pre-ordered the DuetWifi to use for this printer.
Thanks, looks promising! I was originally thinking of just using a bigger nozzle.
The MP Mini is "fast" for a cheap printer. Also, I can easily move it between my basement (for PLA & PETG) and garage (for ABS) to do prints.
Looks like one of my first SolidWorks designs that is more "complex" than an enclosure will be an adapter for the MP Mini to the faster hot-end. :-)
Btw, for others, many (?most?) people that *3D print for themselves* are not mechanical engineers.
Imho, it's likely better to have artistic ability than a mechanical background. Imho, being able to use the 3D programs is more useful for many people, then knowing about structural analysis, design for manufacturability, tolerances, design intent, etc.
I use Solidworks ($$$) at work and home. That's not typical for most individuals that do home 3D printing.
Hey, if the hardcore mechanical engineers are doing Matlab programing and electronics, then I'll start doing 3D design! :-)
Actually, many engineers are like me - do at least a little of all three. Consider printers, automotive anti-lock brakes/anti-collision systems, drones, robots, 3D-printers :-), etc. It's useful for any engineer on projects like that to be familiar with mechanical, electrical, and computer/hardware/software engineering.
@Dude, for quick prototypes, I'm looking forward to the volcano hot end. Being able to lay down a lot of plastic really quickly is nice for those tasks that don't need a fine finish. Of course, "volcano" and "cheap printer" and "fast" are typically not all used together in describing the same printer.
I got my undergrad and graduate degrees, computer/electrical/mechanical engineering, in New England at a top rated university (like many in New England :-).
After my post, I realized afterwards, that most people may not be familiar with PCB manufacturing.
Explanation of copper layer weights:
Basically, 1oz copper (what I use for traces) is used for most digital and analog traces. It's also used for power and ground in most boards. Doing different "copper weights" for a single PCB gets "harder" (i.e. more money because of more board fall out). My wild guess is that ??95%?? of the PCB boards are 1oz copper??? That would be by total boards made, not by percentage of designs.
2oz copper PCBs have been done for 20+years. It's not that it's "technically hard", it's all about volume and when the companies do a switch over in their manufacturing line for 2oz copper boards.
These controllers are basically controlling multiple smart power supplies (driver circuits).
Using 2oz PCB copper layers are much more desirable for designs like this. The 2oz copper has less resistance, less loss, better thermal cooling conduction, and so on.
I have a lot of comments on Kickstarter, likely because of the Agent smart watch. I was a big supporter of that project. I used Chris' (the creator) netduino products before (run "Microsoft('Windows') .NET" software on an ARM processor). That project was a massive failure. I lost a lot of money in that project. Imho, *my* feeling is that the project mainly failed because Chris didn't have the background, nor the experience, to appreciate that Mechanical Engineering is *not* something that a person picks up by reading a few websites. Imho, the electronics and software were production ready for a while. But, that project had one mechanical issue after another.
Fwiw, there's a new low-cost printer ($199 + S&H) that's getting good reviews:
The Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer
I just got mine. :-) However, I'm busy this week, I won't get to try something until next week. :-P
Fwiw, I'm looking to do enclosures, special tools, special supports, brackets, etc. Nothing that has very tight tolerances, or needs fine detail to look good (like a small figurine). So, I can use the cheap printer to do sections of my prototypes, or a quick prototype.
I plan on using a beaglebone with the replicape to control this. A silicone mains voltage heater with an ssr. This will be my first delta but have 3 cartesians so far working at the house. I enjoy building the printers have put 6 together and donated a few to my daughter school for the stem program. Looking forward to this next challenge
Looking for another opinion Screw terminals or pin connectors? I lean toward screw terminals, with the use of lock tight.
Now that's what I'm looking for honest sharing of information. I'll consider the info. To share my ignorance I don't know what the reference to 1oz copper to 2oz copper is but from the syntax I'm guessing it is a spec to something like 1oz of copper is used per square DM (Decimeter) vs 2oz. If I guessed right I'm giving myself a gold star for the day. and learned something. Just to play "Devils Advocate" running at 24v the thinner copper layer should not be an issue as the higher voltage would decrease resistance thus decrease heat. What a min I'm going to give my self some electroshock therapy with a 12v then a 24v PS I'll let you know how it turns out. I was already leaning toward the Azteeg X5 mini mostly because of the removable stepper drivers. The power supply that is another question, I'm going to order it anyway and perform a non destructive autopsy to check the components check wire sizes ETC, Sometimes it doesn't hurt to go less expensive. I'll find some posts on what to look for and what to test I don't have a power consumption gizmo but I may get one, I may get my friend to help me make a probe the monitor the temp and power fluctuations under load etc to see how stable it is. In this particular case design may win out. On a side note what the heck are you doing up at 0100 posting on sites ...Just kidding. does anyone know how to send a PM to someone? I'm done for now thanks for the info. Jim SWEET,,,,DUDE,,,SWEET,,,DUDE. one quick question Dude did you go to college in S.E. Missouri?
Imho, I'd pass on the BIQU Compatible MKS SBASE V1.1
It has a chip that has only 1/2 the RAM that smoothie "specs".
Also, the description doesn't say the weight of the copper layers in the PCB (board).
The Azteeg board specifics "2oz copper".
Most PCBs (boards) use 1oz copper. So, it's a non-cheap premium to do 2oz copper.
Imho, I've found that it's best to pass on the lower cost stuff.
For example, I'd also pass on that power supply.
Who knows if the certification *markings* on the label are real or not?
I suggest getting a power supply from a real company - like Delta Electronics.
Manufacturer Part Number: PMT-24V350W1AK
AC/DC CONVERTER 24V 350W
Price: $57 + S&H.
Digikey sells to individuals. Imho, no one comes even close to Digikey. :-)
Heck, I've had an account with them since school. :-)
Some good info:
EEVblog #388 - Fake Apple USB Charger Teardown
https://youtu.be/i3B_KKyntQE… (start at 13min)
EEVblog #671 - White Van Speaker Scam Teardown
Sharing setup I.E. power supply, controller board, you decided on getting and why. In my case I've decided on this 24v 240w PS. Amazon https://goo.gl/vAUBm7, I like this design because the input power connectors are on one end of the unit and the 24v connectors are on the other end I'm hoping I can screw it to one of the uprights with the AC line near the bottom and the low voltage running to the top. 240W seems to be enough even after I add a hot bed which I expect to do. 24v seems to win over 12v because heating of hot end or bed will be quicker with higher controllability (not a word). Add a power switch and good to go,Controller board, I'm leaning toward this board http://goo.gl/ME3Bo9 at almost twice the price of the board below it has motion control of up to 1/32 steps, drivers are modules which allow easy replacement or upgrade to 1/128 step drivers. The down side at least from this vendor is driver boards are not included. This board https://goo.gl/aEDD9t, is inexpensive. Down side to this board is that it doesn't have replaceable stepper drivers, I'm told that these are the most likely part of a controller board to get damaged. the relative inexpensiveness is what keeps me flip flopping between the two boards. I'm not an expert I'm posting this to encourage exchange of thoughts not to tell anyone this is the perfect fit. please share your thoughts.
Billy thanks for the link about SBASE, I'm really new to this and as a friend has told me I'm probably over thinking this but what the heck anything worth doing is worth over-doing (feel free to mock me). I found the link about 24v Vs 12v provided by Branden Coates a good read, of course all that did was make me jump from 12v to 24v back to 12v and now settle on 24v (after speaking to a friend who is much better at this stuff than I am. I'm looking at a mini project for a power supply enclosure that looks good and fits under the printer maybe something as simple as a piece of Acrylic bent raising the bed or on top. I didn't realize the unit came with enclosure panels that's a big deal for me that alone makes this one of the best Printers I've seen.
I don't have any experience with any of the SBASE boards but I know that there is a huge thread on the reprap forums discussing them. http://forums.reprap.org/read.php…
Has anyone had any experience with this controller "BIQU Compatible MKS SBASE" reliability support etc?
On the main campaign page, there is a link to the Creator's Information.
That page has a link to his Google+ account.
@creator how do I follow your project status on g+
Woot! Thanks Billy!
Thanks everyone for making the funding stage successful. I look forward to delivering your machines.
I could probably write up a bunch on 24v over 12v, but the reprap wiki has a pretty good explanation for the core benefits here http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_a_Power_Supply_for_your_RepRap#Using_24V_power
Hi, I am new to 3D printing and wanted to ask a little question to the experts:
What are the advantages of 24V in comparison to 12V?
Thank you for the update, I am excited to put this together. I have been checking on this Kickstarter everyday since it filled up.
Cool, thank you for being so responsive to all the questions.
Hi Robert. I just sent you the backer message from last night. If you have any questions let me know.
Hi Branden. I'll offer whatever combination that people want. That's going to be one of the survey questions.
I was just able to join this Kickstarter as someone else dropped out. Did I miss the message about shipping?
Hey Billy, had a thought. I intend to use a 24v PSU with this. I know that E3D has a 24v option but are the print cooling fans 12 or 24v? I can manage dropping the voltage to 12v for the cooling fans but out of lazy curiosity will that be needed or is there a 24v fan option?
AHH fair enough. Ill quiet down then and quit worrying, thanks for the reassurance.
Hi Branden. You're fine. Quite a few backers had asked about upgrades in private messages but I'd like to let everyone know about the option in a backer message so that everyone ends up with the same reward options.