Me, Myself & I - the forbidden dark art of roped soloing, for climbers who either need to know in order to make the ultimate climb come true, or those who just like technique 'nerdiness'.
Andy Kirkpatrick is an award winning author and one of the UK’s leading big wall climbers, having made twenty four ascents of El Cap (including three solo ascents), as well as walls in the Alps, Patagonia, Norway and Antarctica - often by the hardest lines, and generally in winter. He has also specialised in solo climbing, with multiple ascents and ‘near ascents’ to his credit, on walls that many deemed too dangerous for hard solo ascents (Eiger North Face and Troll Wall for example).
Me, Myself & I draws on fifteen years of experience on these solo projects, as well as nearly thirty years of general climbing experience, to bring the most specialised big wall instruction book ever written for climbers. Rope soloing will be undertaken by less than 1% of climbers, yet these skills open up the potential for the equivalent of an 'Iron Man' for climbers, to scale the biggest walls - alone and safely.
How this book came about...
Climbers have been asking me for years to write more about the dark art of rope soloing, and I’ve tried to cover some aspects on my blog, plus coached others by email. But what is needed is a more in-depth manual, that covers every aspect of the big wall solo, as well as comprehensive and clear diagrams - something I’ve never been able to do for free content.
The number of people asking for advice has increased over the years, and spiked when I coached Steve Bates (who has only 5% vision left) to solo El Cap in 2013. More and more people wanted to know the tricks that allowed him to pull it off, the level of information needed way beyond the scope of an email. I started asking people what this info was worth, and the reply was “a lot”. I then asked if they’d put their money where their mouths was, and if they’d pay up front, and again the answer was “yes”.
Kickstarter offers the opportunity for people to do this, and if not enough people want to pay up front for the time needed to produce the book, then no sweat (after all I learned the hard way, and that’s part of the game of big wall soloing).
What does the e-book cover?
The book will be by far the most in-depth instructional big wall roped soloing book ever written.
Although aimed at roped soloing, the book will cover many, many subjects that cross over into rock climbing, alpinism and mountaineering - as well as the training and psychology involved, making it relevant to anyone who has an active interest in these areas.
The book will be highly interactive, including a large number of photographs, diagrams and videos.
Like many of my books this will not be a dry and dull book, but will try and bring the spirit of big walling into every page, covering what you need to know, as well as my own and others stories to inspire you.
The book structure will cover:
- Why solo? (Picking an objective, Strategy and tactics)
- Equipment (Specialised Solo belay devices, Adapted solo belay devices, Ropes, bags, Big wall checklist)
- Training and fitness
- Solo training
- Techniques and systems
- Leading - Basic principles and dangers
- Basic single rope solo
- Classic rope big wall solo system
- Continuous loop system
- Death Loop
- Hauling - Basic principles and dangers
- Alpine style
- Russian harness haul
- Classic Yosemite haul
- Advanced hauling
- Survival (Descent, Retreat, First aid, Bivying, Storms)
- Advanced techniques
- Alpine walls
- Capsule style
- Encountering other teams
- Speed climbing - short fixing
- Speed climbing - solo speed
- Post climb warm down
- Future objectives
Risks and challenges
I'm aware that this is aimed at quite a niche market, but it is my hope to sell around 200 copies at £30 to cover the time and efforts involved in putting together such a project.Learn about accountability on Kickstarter
- (30 days)