Use this space to cheer the creator along, ask questions, and talk to your fellow backers. Please remember to be respectful and considerate. Thanks!
Hope all is well. I have not found the lenses yet. Wondering how to handle my top tier investment. Thanks!
Is there a tutorial on how to take apart the DS upper lens to fit in the duo? Ive taken the 2 lenses off following the vimeo tutorial, but the DS upper lens has more elements and will not fit in the duo as is.
Daniel: Not to worry, the last batch is shipping on Wednesday (August 7). Thanks for your patience!
Have all the kits shipped? I have not received mine yet! :(
Kevin, I messaged you about buying someone else's kit, but I haven't heard back from you yet. Can you please verify before I send this person money?
Bryan: Yes, you can get the roll film adapter. I just ordered five more for people in your exact situation! Send me a message just to remind me, and we'll get that rolling along.
I got the kit yesterday. Looks good I can't wait to jump into building it as soon as I get some free time.
Is it possible to still get the roll film adapter for it? I meant to ask before they actually shipped but forgot.
Thanks Kevin, my mistake. The bag is there, but I must have misread the pledge bonus. I was on the understanding that a back would come with the camera for the extra cost. I'm sure I can track down on pretty easily online.
Mike: Just to clarify, the Deluxe kit only comes with the adapter, not the actual roll film back - are you sure there isn't a zip-top bag marked "roll film adapter?" If not, I am more than happy to send you one.
I got my camera parts in the mail, thanks for sending, but I noticed that the kit did not ship with a film roll back and adapter.
My pledge was the DELUXE DUO KIT, which per the pledge description should come with that. Please let me know if this is to be shipped separate.
USPS tells me 6-10 business days. If that's getting close to your deadline, it's probably safer to change your address. Message me with the details and I'll make note of it!
I may need to change address then - how long does it take to ship to Europe?
@Daniel: 15 every week, but hoping for a shipment of 20 this Saturday or the following Monday.
Sorry, just to get it clear - are you shipping 15 every week or are you shipping 15 every day for 5-7 days?
Here are the complete instructions, for your reading pleasure!
Expect an update soon.
Everything is in stock and ready to go, and I have 13 kits (all of the Deluxe kits), in boxes and ready to post tomorrow or Wednesday (by USPS Priority, 3-5 days domestic). The remaining kits will go out in batches of 15 every 5-7 days, in order of pledge date. Detailed instructions are complete and being formatted as we speak, and will be posted shortly. Thanks everyone for your patience!
Any update on where your at on the process?
Is it possible to get the kit to Denmark before July?
Because i'm at a boarding school and i may have to change the shipping address because of the summer break.
Anyone want to buy my camera? Please contact me at Ajleffel@yahoo.com. i pledged $209
Very soon, I promise! I am compiling the instructions, video guides, and templates at the moment - can't ship until those things are complete.
Glue stick it is then !
Have you started shipping yet ? :)
You can use a glue stick, although it will be a little less convenient (you may have to rush to cover the whole surface before it begins to dry).
Haha, i'm thinking of ordering some titebond from Amazon, but the sprayglue seems quite expensive compared to how little i'm going to use. Any alternatives? :)
It might be helpful - personally I prefer to use my fingers :)
Did you use brushes to spread out the glue for the wood assembly?
I recommend a spray adhesive like 3M 77, Elmer's Spray Glue, etc. for tacking the fabric to the backing paper (for even coverage and to avoid bleeding), and a more substantial glue to seal the edges. Then to glue the bellows to the camera assembly, I use a little bit of wood glue.
I think the brand name is "Relief" and i just bought it at a hobby/bookstore where i also bought the brush.
What type of glue should i use for the bellows? Or will the construction guide tell me all about it?
@Daniel: As far as glue for the wood assembly, I would recommend a dedicated wood glue like Titebond or even Elmer's wood glue. What is the name of the glue you're speaking of? As you as you can remove the web, I think you'll be fine. I am working on the construction guide, which will be downloadable coinciding with the first shipment of cameras - that should help everyone out on adhesives and tools.
Any recommendations on any glue?
I recently bought paint, brush and an all-round glue that i'm not so sure about.
The glue is a very sticky adhesive and leaves some 'web' when using. I think that's okay for the wood assembly but i'm not so sure about the bellows.
Anyone interested in buying my $209.00 to Duo: A DIY twin lens reflex camera for instant film by
BASIC DUO KIT: Everything you need to build Duo (laser cut parts, mirror, ground glass, bellows materials, hardware, and detailed instructions). Just supply a lens and Polaroid back.
I bought it for my boyfriend who is no longer my bf and would like it to go to someone who could appreciate it! Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if interested.
That would be great !
@Daniel: I can make a note to include an empty pack with your package.
@Joey: Expect an update in the coming days to address progress on the project, and the shipping date. I would say at the very latest, the second or third week of May.
Any better estimation on when the kits will ship?
I dont happen to have an empty film pack - any alternatives to calibrate the focus or should i just 'sacrifice' one pack of film for the sake of calibration?
Matt: There is a pretty significant difference in field of view between pack film and roll film (about 40mm on pack film to 50mm on roll film, by my estimation). However, there are framelines for 120 film for 6x9, 6x7, and 6x6 formats in the viewfinder that accommodate the crop factor.
Kevin, I plan on using Duo pretty equally between pack film and 120, so is there a major crop factor when using a roll film back that i should be worried about? or is it irrelevant?
You won't need the screw unless you plan to reattach the feet for use on a 600SE. Let me know if you have any trouble with the lenses - a visegrip is very helpful for removing the retaining rings.
Putty should be fine, as long it it's totally opaque. I'd go over it with a marker just to be safe.
I managed to fix it by finding a 'stubborn' screwdriver and drilling it all the way to the point where it didn't fit anymore, not much of a mess, only the screw is pretty ugly now - Is it something that will be used later to build the Duo?
I hope the same thing wont happen when i try to extract the lenses.
Also, if i put some putty in it instead of black tape (the putty is white)
Will i still need to cover it with something black or just find a black marker to draw over.
Or is filling the putty in the holes OK?
@Daniel: A couple of things you can try:
a) It really helps to have the right screwdrivers. I'm not sure if the heads are Phillips, or JIS Type-S - but I have a cheap set of the latter, and they work like a charm. This might help you in the future.
b) Dab a little bit of penetrating oil/lubricant around the screw, and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. If this screw is stripped or stuck, this can help lessen the torque needed to extract it.
c) For really troublesome screws, I lock a screwdriver in the jaws of a visegrip. This gives you extra weight to keep the screwdriver in the screw, and more torque to break it loose.
d) As a last resort, you can always cut or drill out the screw using a Dremel tool and abrasive wheel. This is guarantee to work, but it won't always be pretty. . .
e) There are special tools for extracting stripped screws, but I've not had any experience with them.
Kevin, i was trying to make my 600SE Back compatible to the duo but one of the screws are in pretty bad condition and it wont get off, any ideas on what to do?
@Satoru: Do they ship to Denmark? :o
@Joey: It shouldn't be too difficult to add an angled brace to each side of the front standard, if you're concerned about the extra weight.
Well, I did it. I bought a second Mamiya 100mm f/2.8. I guess I should've thought about this before, but is the front standard going to be able to support the weight of two of those lenses? I know I'm going to have to widen the hole for the viewing lens, but i don't want anything to sag or break. Suggestions?
@Daniel: Go to your local art supplies store and grab one of these (or similar): http://www.dickblick.com/products/clear-styrene-sheets/ the "non-glare" side is pretty much like GG :-) Very easy to cut & break into a desired shape. I fashioned my own "3x4 Polaroid Back Ground Glass" using one of these. like $1.50 a sheet :)
@Daniel: The easiest way is to stick a piece of matte Scotch tape (the kind in the green dispenser) over the film gate. It acts very much like a ground glass. Having a ground glass at your disposal is certainly a luxury, but it's not strictly necessary :)
It is possible for you to include the glass you use to calibrate the focus?
Because i really dont know where to get a piece of glass unless i need to break something and try to sand it without cutting myself !
Or are there other materials i can use?
lens on the way, polaroid back about to be "borrowed" from my RB67...very excited to start building!
finish...hmmm...i think it's gonna be the red fabric with a natural finish with my hot-rod buddy making it all bad-ass with red/black/white pinstriping. it's gonna be used to mostly take pictures of tattooed girls, so might as well make it pretty. LOL!
@ Mike: Yes, the 600SE backs are 99% identical to the Mamiya backs, and the instructions for modifying the back also apply. I've been using two 600SE backs on my prototypes, and they work flawlessly.
I'm glad people are having luck finding lenses and backs!
I'm happy to say that I just got my 600SE Polaroid back for my Duo! Do the instructions you posted for preparing the back apply to this model as well?
If anyone is having a hard time finding Mamiya backs for their cameras (like I was), eBay has a much larger selection of the 600SE's at a typically cheaper price point.
The lenses were a little bit harder to come by and were a little more than I would have liked to pay, but again, the set I found on eBay came in perfect working condition with just a few scratches on the outer metal casing.
Can't wait to start putting this all together!
@Satoru: I'll be messaging the laser engraving information to all Deluxe backers in full detail in the next day or two, but here's what I have so far:
VF hood: 1.5" x 1.5" (38mm) square area, centered. For reference the VF hood is just over 4" x 4" square.
Bottom: 3" x 1.25" (75mm x 32mm) area, aligned to either the "front" or "back" of the bottom piece.
Designs are preferred in a vector format, like DXF, DWG, Illustrator (.ai), Corel Draw (.cdr), or Illustrator-compatible PDF. The area to be debossed should be shaded or otherwise noted. All engravings will be roughly 0.5-1mm deep.
I can also trace the design from a raster image format like JPG, PNG, etc.