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Catacombs™ is the award winning, fantasy, dexterity, tabletop game. Players shoot wooden discs through dungeon rooms on a quest to defeat the Catacomb Lord. Compatible with Catacombs & Castles.
Catacombs™ is the award winning, fantasy, dexterity, tabletop game. Players shoot wooden discs through dungeon rooms on a quest to defeat the Catacomb Lord. Compatible with Catacombs & Castles.
2,230 backers pledged CA$ 233,771 to help bring this project to life.
Mike Kemler, Isaac Hayward, and 24 more people like this update.

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    1. Kelley Callery on

      I was envisioning the barrier being something like a 1/2" dowel, flat on one side, the length of the box, that could quickly be moved prior to taking your shot.

    2. Missing avatar

      Alexander Wise on

      So, as an all-in backer, exactly how many heroes and lords will I have at my disposal? I want to see if I now have more class options than for Descent.

      Base Game:
      Barbarian, Thief, Wizard, Elf, Ice Mage, Chicken, Skeleton.

      Soloth:
      4 Heroes (possibly Ice Princess, Sorceress, Paladin, Witch Hunter), Vampire

      Chicks:

      Forest Sprite, Amazon, Huntress, and Fire Mage.

      16 heroes and 13 lords, yes? That sounds like some great replayability.

    3. Eric Rohner on

      Another example of concept. This wall is no good if you don't want bankshots, but the height is very low and just fine!

      http://boardgamegeek.com/video/1994/catacombs/catacombs-bankshot-border

    4. gwathdring on

      It has the advantage of dampening shots, too; collisions with the cord as less elastic than those with a cardboard barrier.

    5. gwathdring on

      @innovan Awesome!

    6. innovan
      Superbacker
      on

      @gwathdring. Yes, because it's soft, crushable fabric cord, no problems so far, and it has allowed us to play in coffee houses without pieces skittering under other patron's tables.

      We just use 7 feet of 1/4 inch thick cord loosely draped outside the (original size) board --people can move it back and forth as needed it they really feel it's in their way. I tried the 2mm cord from String Railway, and it's too close to the board height itself --pieces will slide off the playing board and continue over the top of the 2mm string. 1/4 inch cord though has stopped well so far. Here's a pic of our low-tech token catcher cord. We had too much so we doubled back the excess to reduce it to 7 feet since we didn't have scissors at the time, and haven't fixed it since: http://bgg.cc/image/1988470/innovan

    7. Christian on

      I was thinking about G&T's #3 option and what will likely keep pieces from ricocheting back onto the board would be raising the main board a little bit so that the space between the barrier and the board is a natural channel. At first I thought you could make something out of wood to put down under your current board but then I realized the game comes with the perfect solution- use the other boards not currently in use to elevate the current board. That elevation should stop a lot of the errant shots ricocheting back onto the play field.

    8. G&T
      Superbacker
      on

      To Elzra's credit, I like the attempt to work barriers/borders into the core game but they need to satisfy triple goals: 1) keeping discs from flying away off the table/floor, 2) helping identify the proper spot where a disc should be placed back onto the board when it goes off and 3) avoiding the power blast situation where a player blasts their disc into an area, rebounds off a border and then powers back onto the board to cause more havoc (none of which takes skill and just blasting stuff around can ruin the fun of actually working through a given situation).

      I can see where the cardboard borders could work but our group already uses wood barriers and those are soooo much more effective than the idea being presented in this update. I cna't see us ever going away from the wood blocks we currently use.

      We actually gravitated towards a similar setup as what Christian described just below me. I appreciate Elzra giving this consideration and their idea could work, but for us, the method Christian explained really the best way to handle borders.

      I get that wood is pricey (and heavy for shipping) but maybe wooded barriers/borders can be a KS-exclusive (or not) uber-stretch goal?

    9. Christian on

      Also, they have not even mentioned a height for these walls so there isn't really any way to comment on whether they will get in the way height-wise. My scratch built walls were about 2" high and since they were away from the board by about 2 inches, they never got in the way. I think you could have a lower height wall (maybe just 1 inch high) and that would be just fine. You can check it out yourself by putting your hand on your desk/table and make a flicking motion. 2" back from my hand has my wrist about 1.5" off the table and would not even touch a short wall.

    10. Christian on

      I know personally, I will always use the walls. From experience, they are so worth any hassle about "getting in the way." I scratch built my own and won't play the game without them now :-)
      .
      Teamski's video link is dead on. We got tired of having all the players put their arms up to block the shots all the time.

    11. Teamski
      Superbacker
      on

      I think this sums up nicely why I like the barrier idea.

      http://boardgamegeek.com/video/22025/catacombs/catacombs-in-5-seconds

    12. C3
      Superbacker
      on

      I like this idea a lot. No border and the art were the major detractors for me with original. Kuddos!

    13. J Pierce on

      I think the walls will likely be unused by a lot of people, but it's probably good that they're there because it will address some people's concerns that might otherwise prevent them from buying.

    14. Missing avatar

      Dustin Dewees on

      I also like the string idea to actually absorb hits.

    15. Missing avatar

      Dustin Dewees on

      Well, these walls seem they will be in the way. Too tall, etc... What I was planning to do myself is get shoe box lids... They are only a centimeter tall or so and that's all you need I believe. If there was a lid the exact size of the box and then foldable, you can just put the lid under the whole game it won't move and you have plenty room to flick.

    16. Adam Fair on

      @Matthew - the only problem with that, is that you'd be sacrificing a lot of rigidity - they'd always be getting knocked askew, whereas a fixed rectangle is pretty minimal fuss. I did have similar thoughts though.

      @Innovan: The looped string is a really interesting idea - I suspect it depends on how much force they really can absorb, but it has the advantages of 1) being very difficult to damage, 2) not being very high, and so not blocking shots, and 3) slowing rather than bouncing shots, making accidental ricochets jolting the board unlikely. I wonder how difficult it is for Elzra to source materials-wise though.

      I think we can all agree that it needs to be low-profile though - just slightly taller than the discs - otherwise it will compromise the angles of shots people can take.

      I love the idea, incidentally, because this will mean that I can potentially play this in e.g. pubs without the pieces disappearing into some dark recess!

    17. Matthew Bair on

      We would definitely prefer a wall all the way around. Regardless of the direction you're aiming, you're never sure where disks are going to go! Maybe give the wall a mid-breakpoint (two halves) so that folks can use both halves or just one half?

    18. André on

      I envision a Toblerone chocolate bar, Catacombs SE, to be used as a barrier.

    19. PHOENIX Interactive
      Superbacker
      on

      I wager however these turn out, they would be used once or twice and then left in the box. if there is no attachement to the gameboard, they'll twist and slide, or simply get in the way of playing. Easier to retrieve a piece that has slipped off the table every once in a while.

      I'd say: Save the money and do something else with it!

    20. Alex Draper on

      probably best to experiment with different materials and heights - just use minimum height required.

    21. gwathdring on

      @innovan Ooh! That sounds promising. Can you easily rest an arm on it, flat on the table?

    22. innovan
      Superbacker
      on

      Why not use a string or a chord in a loop like the one used for the border in String Railway? It loops around the outside of the board, and is soft and absorbs the energy of shots, deadening them when they go off the board. I made a loop from some spare drawstring chord and it works great with the original set.

    23. Teamski
      Superbacker
      on

      I like the idea about the wall. It doesn't have to be tall to work, perhaps 2" max, so it shouldn't be too much in the way.

      -Ski

    24. Elzra Games 4-time creator on

      @ gwathdring & Jason - thanks for the feedback, it helps to know how players actually play. We certainly could consider the suggestions of a wall that would only cover one half of the board. The barrier walls concept is not finalized so we are exploring diffferent possiblities.

    25. FM on

      Walls are a great idea! Works well in Crokinole where you also flip discs. Makes the game easier and more fun to play, since game flow is not interrupted by searching for lost discs.

    26. gwathdring on

      Hmm. I see a wall around the entire board getting in the way of play, sometimes. It means you can't rest your arm flat on the table when making shots.

      Having a moveable partial wall that could be placed in the general direction of the shot might be preferable. I personally wouldn't use it, but I see why people would want it.

    27. Jason Brown
      Superbacker
      on

      Personally I would prefer not to have a wall arround the whole board. When we played the original we would put up barriers arround the half of the board we are targeting. Would it be possible to have two or four small stands (as in the photo above) so we can choose to do a full wall or take one or two of the walls to make moveable barriers?

      A better option may be to make two sets of barrier walls that each cover half of the board. I cant see how you would fit the longer length in the box otherwise.

      Thanks