Thanks for taking a few minutes to check out this campaign! This is my sixth kickstarter campaign. It is (what I believe) to be the most exciting campaign yet! It is production ready, and the software is complete. I may tweak it, but for all intents and purposes, it is complete! These units are ready for productions, but It costs a LOT to get the production line going. With your help, I'll be able to do a decent production run, and get this set out in the open!
Update (September 29th):
If you have an interest in wireless activation/deactivation, this is a late-game option! If you're interested in pledging, and want the wireless control option, simply add $10 on top of the pledge and shipping costs. This will get you a wireless transmitter key-fob and a wireless receiver module that works with the main board!
Version#1 Video Manual (Will be updated soon):
The lasers themselves are invisible to the human eye. However, with a little bit of smoke, steam, or dust, you can even see the lasers! You can bank them off of mirrors or simply aim the laser directly at one of the four sensors!
Meet the Multi-Program Ultimate Laser Tripwire Security Set!
This set includes four unique programs! Three of those four programs have a secondary sub-program mode that allows for you to tweak functions. The video offers a complete demonstration, but you may need to pause the video at times to read the text. It is a very fast paced! I will also be speaking on each of the programs below. I've created many laser trip-wire systems in the past. This is without a doubt my most interesting circuit of the bunch!
This is the main controller board. The more lasers that you have, the more area that you can cover! There are four sensors to choose from! You only need one, but the more the better. Bounce lasers off of mirrors to create a maze. Break one beam, and you're toast!
The Laser, The Laser Mounts, The Wall Adapters & Regulator Boards:
We will have many reward tiers that will include lasers, and variations of what is seen above. What we have here is a 3v 5mW laser that can be plugged into your wall outlet. You can turn the laser on and off via a small switch on the regulator board seen below. The Wall adapter used for this regulator board is rated for 120-240VAC-IN 50/60Hz to 9VDC @ 1A-OUT. This means that it can be used anywhere in the world! The wall adapter plugs or solders into the regulator board, and the regulator board brings that voltage down to a precise and safe 3v that acts to power the laser. The laser mounts can be adjusted on many axes, and can also be mounted to a wall or bench. The laser mounts come with mounting hardware.
The lasers are quality 3v 5mW red LED laser modules. These lasers have a focusable beam. You can focus the beam against a wall for a smaller & stronger laser, or you can defocus the laser to make the beam thicker, but less strong. More focused beams go further, but are harder to line up with the sensors. Less focused beams won't go as far, but are easier to line up with the sensors. Since these lasers are rated for 5mw, they are legal and safe to ship. These lasers are as powerful as common laser pointers. These lasers can be soldered or connected via output terminal block to the 3v regulator boards. DO NOT POINT THESE IN THE EYES OF YOUR FELLOW MAN. It is dangerous, and it simply isn't a nice thing to do.
The Wall Adapters:
These wall adapters will be used to power the lasers (for some reward tiers), and to power the main controller board. These wall adapters plug right in to the controller board. They are rated for 120-240VAC @ 50/60Hz IN//9VDC 1A OUT. When using them with the regulator boards, the insulation needs to be removed from the positive (red) 9v wire, and the negative (black) wire so that it may be soldered into the regulator board, or screwed into the output terminal block.
The Regulator Board:
There are rewards tiers that include the DIY kit version of this board, but we also sell them fully assembled and tested. This board takes any voltage at the input (Between 4 - 15VDC) and regulates it down to a safe 3v for the laser to draw power from. It is very easy to use. There are solder points for the input supply voltage, and at the regulated 3v output to the laser. There is also a terminal block option for both the input and output connections. There will be a full assembly video for those of you who pledge towards DIY kit sets. There will also be a full video manual and a detailed written manual.
The Adjustable Laser Mounts:
A Laser can be mounted directly to these adjustable laser mount units. The laser mounts have many adjustable axes, and can easily be mounted to almost anything. Mounting hardware is included when you pledge towards a reward that includes a laser mount. It comes in a few parts, and you have to put it together to attach the laser. Don't worry. It only takes a minute or two =D
The siren is one bad... Well, you know =) The siren is so LOUD! It is so much louder than it sounds in the video. My camera cannot pick up just how loud this unit is. It is rated for 6-12VDC and requires an average of 500mA when active. It takes no current at all when the siren is not active. It plugs directly into the siren connector on the controller board. The connector seen in the picture above is a modified connector. The siren connector that you will receive (reward tier pending) will be a stereo connector that plugs directly into the siren connector on the controller board. The siren has two mounding holes, and a double-sided tape option for easy mounting!
Wire connectors will be included so that the user can connect the outputs of the controller board to an external circuit or platform such as Arduino or PIC.
The Controller Board:
The Sensors are located on each side of the controller board. They are labelled UP, DOWN, LEFT, and RIGHT. These are where you point your lasers. There are mounting holes in each of the corners for easy installation.
The Program Index tells you which jumper to select on the program select bar. For instance, program#1 is the "Gesture" program. This tells us that before we power up, we need to place a 2-pin jumper on the PRG1 header.
The Sub-Program Select Header has three pins labelled VCC, EN, and GND. Of the four programs, three have secondary (sub) modes of operation. We use this jumper to choose which sub mode we want to use when using a specific program. For instance, in Shadow mode, we use this jumper to select of the output of the "R" pin is momentary or latching. All will be explained in the video and written manuals.
The Power Supply Input is merely a female DC power jack that takes power from the 9v 1A wall adapter. This is the power supply input of the device.
The SEL Button (Select Button) is used in many modes to enable the program, disable the program, or to disable the siren after an alarm has been triggered.
The Siren Connector is merely an audio connector that is used as an input for the siren. The siren has a male audio jack that plugs right into this audio connector. Like butter!
The Program Select Bar allows for us to chose which program we want to use. This has to be done prior to power up. You just need a 2-pin jumper to short the correct PRG (Program) pins.
The Indicator LEDs are used in Shadow and Gesture modes. They can be disabled or enabled by adding or removing the "LED_EN" jumper, which is located to the right of the program select bar. These LEDs are labelled L/U/D/R for Left, Up, Down, and Right. They correspond to each sensor on the board. The final LED is located just above the programmed chip, and CANNOT be disabled. This LED is specifically labelled "INDICATE". This LED is used in trip-wire modes.
The Output Block is has four outputs, a regulated 5v line, and a ground line. The regulated 5v line is called "VCC". The ground line is labelled "GND". The outputs correspond to each sensor and are used in Gesture & Shadow modes of operation. The left output is labelled L/B2, the up output is labelled U/B3. The down output is labelled D/B5. Lastly, the right output is labelled R/A7.
There is a lot to say about each program. Msot of it is outlined in the above video. I'm going to leave most of the explaining for the video manual/written manual so that I can keep this short and sweet.
This is my favourite mode of operation. This is the full-on laser tripwire mode of operation. You can use anywhere from one to four lasers on the controller board. The more lasers you use, the bigger maze/danger are you make for yourselves. This mode can be used in normal room lighting, or in darkness. It doesn't matter. In this mode, the sensors are configured to detect fast changes in light. If one of the sensors detects that, then the alarm will sound. To enable scanning, simply press the SEL button. All of the LEDs will scroll to the right one time to tell you that your unit is now scanning for a change in light. When the alarm sounds, the INDICATE LED will light up for three seconds. During this time, you cannot disarm the alarm. The INDICATE LED turns off three seconds after the alarm is triggered. At this point, the alarm will be disabled once you press the SEL button. In program#4A, when a laser is tripped, the INDUCATE LED will cycle on and off for six seconds before the alarm is triggered. If you press the SEL button during this time, the unit will be deactivated. If you are successful in deactivating the unit, the LEDs will again scroll to the right just once. From there, you need to press the SEL button one more time to re-enable scanning. If you are in program#4B, then as soon as you trip a laser, then the alarm will sound immediately. You have to wait three seconds before you deactivate the alarm.
This program is also a laser-tripwire circuit. However, it is very different than program#4. In this program, we only use the bottom and/or top sensor. If we are in program#3A, then only the bottom sensor is used. In program 3B, both the bottom and top sensors are being used. Before you power your controller board up, make sure that you have laser beams lined up with the bottom sensor (3A) or both the bottom and the top sensors (3B). If you don't and you power the unit up, the alarm will sound and scare the heck out of you. When you trip with laser, the alarm will sound BUT ONLY FOR AS LONG AS YOU ARE BREACHING THE LASER! Once you move out of the way of the laser beam, the alarm will turn off.
This mode is called "Shadow" mode. This is an Arduino Compatible mode. In shadow mode, all sensors are being used at once. This mode does not require lasers. You can use them if you'd like, but they aren't necessary. This mode scans each of the sensors for a fast changes in light. In program#2A, when any change of light is detected, the R/A7 will be asserted and the R (RIGHT) LED will turn on for about 250ms, then turn off again. This is called Momentary mode. You can connect this output to your Arduino with ease to trigger an operation when motion is detected/a change of light (Such as a shadow) is introduced to the face of the board. In program#2B, whenver a fast change in light is detected, the R/A7/R LED will toggle states. For instance, one change in light will turn that output/LED on. Another will toggle it off. This is called Latching/Toggle mode.
This program is called "Gesture" mode. This is also an Arduino compatible mode. All sensors are enabled and looking for a change in light. There is no sub-program for program#1. In this mode, if the right sensor detects a fast change in light, then the R/A7 output & "R" LED will turn on for about 250ms, then turn off again. If the upper sensor detects a change in light, then the same will happen to the U/B3 and "U" LED. If the lower sensor detects a change in light, then the same will happen to the D/B5 and "D" LED. If the left sensor detects a change in light, then the same will happen to the L/B2 and "L" LED.
Arduino Code Samples:
One piece of code is used in the demo video. Said program is used with "Gesture" mode, and the serial monitor tells you when which sensor has detected a breach. I'l be including that in the written manual. Some programs are used specifically to interact with external circuits, or programmable platforms. If I create more pieces of code for sample purposed, I'll be including them in the manual. I will also make videos of each program that I make.
Within the first two weeks of the launch of this campaign, I will have an idea as to whether or not it will be successful. I will also have enough information to determine how many components I'll require, and how many assemblies I'll beed to have manufactured. I will also have an idea as to how many DIY kits I'll have to make. At this point, if things are looking up, I'l begin my primary parts order.
Making my primary parts order should take a couple of days. By three weeks in, I should be almost certain about whether or not this campaign will be successful. If things are looking positive, then I will be ordering PCBs for DIY kits, and assemblies for those of you who pledge towards a fully built and tested set of units. Components and PCBs will ship to me within a week, but assemblies will take about two weeks for shipment. Arrival after shipment takes between 3-4 business days.
After four weeks, this campaign will be at an end. I will not stop providing product uptes at this point. I will keep you informed about what still needs to be done, what has been accomplished, where I am with rewards and manual writing, etc. It takes about two weeks for kickstarter to transfer funds over.
As long as there are no delays, (and there shouldn't be) then I will be shipping rewards as of two weeks after this campaign ends. the total time for this campaign is 30 days. I expect all shipments to be made as of 30 days plus 14 days (2 weeks), so 44 days after this campaign begins. That is my goal. that is the goal that I've met with all of my successful campaigns.
The Written Manual, The Video Manual, & The Assembly Video:
As always, I will be making a detailed step-by-step instructional video for those of you who pledge towards DIY kits of this set. This will allow for you to build and test with me. Piece by piece!
You will also receive the link to both a video and written manual. the video manual is for people who follow along with vision. I'm the kind of person that prefers leaning through doing. This is why I create a video manual. Many people learn through text and diagrams, which is why I always create a detailed written manual. The written manual will be sent via downloadable link in one of the later project updates. It will include al diagrams, schematics, Arduino code samples, program descriptions, etc.
Kickstarter has been a wonderful channel for bringing my ideas to life. I've also met a ton of great people here. Kickstarter isn't just a place to have your ideas funded. It is also a really cool network of believers.
As with all of my past designs proposed on kickstarter, this one is very expensive to produce. If I can meet my financial goal in this campaign, then my primary goal (as it always is with kickstarter) will be to get the rewards shipped out quickly, and with the quality that previous pledges have come to expect of me.
Thanks for taking the time to check out my campaign!
Many thanks to all of you who have taken the time to check this out! As always, my priority is quality and prompt execution. I will be working very hard for your pledges here. This is my sixth campaign, and I'm hoping that it will be successful. With your help, of course!
Risks and challenges
These units are production ready, so PCB issues certainly will not cause issues. I've been able to ship out all of my rewards on time with each of my last kickstarter campaigns! I have yet to meet a delay. That said, delays can happen. My goal is to have all rewards shipped as of two weeks after this campaign ends.
I do not expect that there will be any delays. I have several sources for each of the components and peripherals. I also have a long standing and dependable relationship with my PCB and Manufacturing companies.
I am a dependable and thoughtful person. When my kickstarter campaigns end, my immediate concern/priority is to follow through as quickly and as efficiently as possible. I also care greatly about quality. Quality control takes a ton of time when readying rewards, but I always make sure t to take that time. You can depend on my work ethic, my products, and my eagerness to please. Thanks for taking the time to check out my kickstarter campaign!Learn about accountability on Kickstarter
- (30 days)