Hi everyone! Thanks for having a gander at my 31st Kickstarter campaign! I am excited to introduce you to the TROLL! It is production ready, and will be in your hands long before Halloween!
This little device can be used to prank and haunt people in your life in so many different ways! It's also Arduino compatible, so you can modify how it works! This device contains a ton of very scary sound bites, along with a ton of annoying and funny sound bites, like farts, belches, and embarrassing sexy sounds!
It's Portable! - With the help of a 9v battery, and the included speaker, you can hide the TROLL in a place where nobody will find it. Place it into either BUGGER or HAUNTING mode to completely confuse, embarrass, or scare your victim!
Mix Audio! - You can connect the TROLL between the stereo output of a computer, and computer speakers. The TROLL will MIX it's sound bites with the sound coming from your computer. It will make your victim think that either their computer is haunted, or corrupted! Best of all, you can even power the TROLL with any USB port on the computer in question!
Connect to ANY Stereo Input! - Want volume? You got it! Connect the TROLL audio output to the stereo input of any audio player, turn the volume up, and get ready to scare the ever living HECK out of your victim!
Currently, only 47% of chip space is being used! If you pledge to this campaign, and you have suggestions on what I should add, then simply contact me directly through this campaign, or leave your suggestions in the comment section! Here are all of the current soundbites that you can play with:
Lights Out Mode - This mode is the perhaps the most cruel of all of the programs! Connect the stereo output of the TROLL to the stereo input of your audio player, and turn the volume WAY UP! From there, turn off the lights. You'll notice that when you do this, the on-board LED will flash ten times. This indicates that the TROLL is ready to scare, and begins to wait for the light to turn back on. When the victim enters the room and turns on the light, the TROLL outputs one of three VERY LOUD and TERRIFYING SCREAM audio bites! You'll have your victim cursing your name for years to come,and they'll certainly be needing fresh pair of underpants!
Bugger Mode - In Bugger mode, the TROLL will intermittently play either fart sound bites, belch sound bites, embarrassing sexy sound bites, or annoying sound bites. You select what is played by adjusting the on-board DIP switch settings. They won't be able to easily isolate the source of the sounds because you'll likely be using a battery and portable speaker for this application. Also, they won't be able to time the sound bites, as they play randomly. One might play after a minute, while the next might play after 7 minutes and forty five seconds =) If you are at work, hide the TROLL in a drop ceiling tile, or perhaps within a cubicle wall! If you don't have a good poker face, don't stick around, or else you'll start laughing!
Haunting Mode - Like Bugger mode, Haunting mode plays sound bites, but with much longer duration in between each sound bite... Up to forty minutes in between =) Also, Haunting mode only plays scary sound bites... See the above video to hear all of the sound bites currently included in the TROLL. It is advised that you use a battery and portable speaker for this program. Hide it well, plug in power, and leave the building. You're going to drive your friends crazy with this program!
External TRIGGER Mode - You select what type of audio bite will be played by adjusting the on-board DIP switch settings, and then use your own sensors or switches to play said audio bites sequentially! It is super easy, and will be explained in the upcoming video manual! Use a reed (magnetic switch), a rocker switch, or perhaps even a PIR motion sensor to trigger a sound bite! Remember, you can use the portable speaker, or you can use any audio player for higher volume. The TROLL is versatile, and easy to use!
MAKE YOUR OWN PROGRAMS! - I'll be including all of the code used for each of the above programs, and the TROLL comes programmed with all of them. Use these commented code samples, and the audio library to create your own pranks! If you have an Arduino UNO, then you can use your own creativity to scare and prank people!
The AC-DC Power Jack - This is one of three power supply options for the TROLL. It is compatible with any power supply between 7.5VDC and 15VDC. Some reward tiers come with 9v 1A AC-DC wall adaptors.
Battery Terminal Block - This is another one of the three power supply options. Connect a multi-AA battery box, or a 9v battery connector here. The positive wire should connect to the "V+" terminal, and DC ground to the "-" terminal.
Reset and SEL buttons - You can reset the TROLL at any time by pressing the RST button. The SEL button is an extra piece of hardware that will be used in later programs. It is pulled to 5v via a 10k ohm pull-up resistor.
USB Power Connector - This is the third, and final power supply option for the troll. You can connect to any computer USB port, and this will act to fully power the troll. Just make sure that you remove the 5V enable jumper before doing this.
Speaker Connector - Some reward tiers include a portable speaker connector. This 8 ohm speaker connects to this two pin header.
The 4-Channel DIP Switch - This DIP switch selects which program you're going to use on power up, and in some cases, which type of sound bites will play. You can also use this DIP switch in your own programs!
Audio Jacks 1 & 2 - If you're going to use an external speaker, either of these audio jacks will work. If you're going to mix audio bites coming from the TROLL with the audio from another source, such as your computer, you can connect the audio output line from your computer to one of these jacks, and the other will be used to connect to a set of computer speakers, or other audio player. This will act to mix both signals together.
External Trigger Header - In EXTERNAL Trigger mode, you'll use this header to trigger audio bites as you see fit. You can also use this header to power other low power 5v devices, if you'd like. Using this header will be talked about in detail in the upcoming video manual.
LDR (Light sensor) - This light dependent resistor is used in LIGHTS OUT mode. It can be used to trigger sound bites based on the light in the room. The sample code that uses this sensor will be commented in full!
5V Enable Jumper - If you're using the battery terminal block or the AC-DC power jack to power the TROLL, make sure that this jumper is in place. Remove this jumper if you're using the USB power connector as a power supply.
Analog Channels - Arduino pins A0-A5 can be accessed via the 8-pin header just below the 5v Enable Jumper. The A0 analog pin is being used by the light sensor. There is also a regulated 5v power line, and a DC ground line that you can use to connect to other TTL compatible devices.
The USB Cable - Some reward tiers include a USB cable, which can be used to harness 5v from any powered USB port, to be used as a power supply for the TROLL.
The Stereo Cable - Most reward tiers include a stereo cable, which will allow for you to connect to computer speakers, or any audio player for a much higher level of volume!
The 9v 1A 120-240VAC 50/60Hz AC-DC Power Supply - Some reward tiers come with this 9v wall adaptor, which is one of the three power supply options used to power the troll. The AC input requirements of 120-240VAC @ 50/60Hz make it ideal for AC mains connections all over the world.
9v Battery Cable Connector - ALL reward tiers come with this battery connector. It allows for you to connect a 9v battery to the power supply terminal block,which acts to power the TROLL. Just make sure that you use a good quality 9v battery =D
The 8 Ohm 1/2 Watt Portable Speaker - Most reward tiers come with this little speaker. It is used mostly for Bugger mode. Use a battery to power the TROLL, hook up this little speaker, and hide it all in a place that would be hard to find. Let the hilarity ensue!
Code Samples & Video Manuals:
I've always created detailed video manuals for each of my past campaigns. Most of my previous campaigns included DIY soldering kits of my wares, as well as fully assembled and tested versions. This campaign is no different. I will be creating a detailed assembly video, along with a complete video manual which will outline how to easily get started with the TROLL right out of the box! In addition, all code samples that I provide will be fully commented, so that you can easily create your own projects with this set! All relative project documents and code samples will be updated to this link, and will be updated as the campaign progresses: http://www.engineeringshock.com/the-troll-project-page.html
I hate to repeat myself, as I've been saying variations of the same thing for each of my past campaigns, but the Kickstarter community has been so good to me. I have been able to bring twenty eight of my projects to life because of Kickstarter and the Kickstarter community. Every campaign is an adventure. I am very thankful. Thanks to you all for taking the time to check out this campaign. I hope that the practical jokers out there are excited to be a part of this one!
This campaign will last thirty days. At the end of the first week, I'll have enough information to forecast what will be required in order to fulfil all reward shipments. This isn't to say that my numbers will be completely correct, but I will have enough information to get my orders ready to submit to my component suppliers and PCB manufacturer. I will be sending out at least one project update during this first week.
The second and third weeks of this campaign will be dedicated to updating the audio bite library, submitting component orders, commenting sample code for the main project page (talked about above), and providing assembly instructions to my PCB assembler. All hardware orders will have been processed and paid for by the end of the third week of this campaign, assuming that this campaign has been funded.
The fourth and final week of this campaign will be dedicated to completing the video manual, assembly manual (For DIY kit pledges), and publishing the sample code to the project page on my website.
Two weeks after this campaign ends, shipping will commence. As with all of my campaigns, the idea is to start shipping exactly two weeks after the campaign ends. Sometimes I'm able to ship early. It is beneficial for me to get orders out as fast as possible. This keeps pledges happy, and it makes things easier at this end. Getting a quality reward out to you on time (Or early) is my main goal.
Thanks again, everyone. If you've trusted me with your pledge, then please know that you can count on me to continually update you with my progress,and to get your reward shipped as fast as humanly possible. Thank you all for your time, and have a wonderful day!
Risks and challenges
As with all of my previous campaigns, the only risk is that a short shipping delay is the only real risk, and even then, I've always managed to ship projects on time or early. Always. I have solid relationships with my suppliers and manufacturers. The Troll is production ready, and the accessories are relatively easy to come by. If one supplier can't come through on a component or accessory. I have trusted back-up suppliers to work with. If you've pledged your hard earned money towards any of my past designs, you'll know that I work hard to get all products out the door as fast as humanly possible. If you have any concerns about anything regarding this campaign, please feel free to contact me. I'll be in touch promptly!
Thank you kindly for your consideration. I sincerely hope that you are taking an interest in this fun and silly project!
- (30 days)