My name is Patrick Mitchell, and this is my 7th Kickstarter campaign! Thanks for checking it out =D
I've always loved using RFID cards to control my circuits. Sometimes the decoding of RFID cards can be a pain. What I've done here is created a unit that can save the data from up to 6x 125kHz RFID cards into EEPROM memory, to be used to control external circuits. There are also 2x on-board relays that allow for you to easily control high power loads, and even low-power AC devices using the simple swipe of an RFID card. The video above shows it all, but the video below goes into more detail about basic functionality. It takes less than 30 seconds to program up to 6x cards into memory. Each programmed card has an allocated 5v/TTL compatible output and an Indicator LED. There is a latching mode, and a momentary mode. This set is production ready! I just need to make some software optimizations, and acquire funds to mass produce these bad-boys!
Update - October 28th: I've been asked if the Antenna can be extended out from the board. In this video, I add about a foot of wire between the antenna and the reader board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEzdqTv3DHw
The RFID123 Primary Features:
The Block Diagram & Close up:
The DC Power Jack / Terminal Power Block: You can power the RFID123 board in one of two ways. You can use the DC power jack or the terminal power block to supply power to the board. The RFID123 requires 8-10VDC @ 300mA or more. The 9v 1A AC-DC adapter that comes with some of the reward tiers plugs directly into the DC power jack. If you wish to use your own power supply, then you can use your own AC-DC wall adapter, or use a power supply through the terminal power block. Please note that two supplies cannot be used at the same time.
The SEL Button: This button is only used in LATCHING MODE. It can be pressed to clear all of the outputs to 0v (low) state.
The Mode Selection headers: There are four headers on in this area. The PRG header, which is used in program mode, the SET header, which is used to select between MOMENTARY and LATCHING modes, and the LOCK headers. The LOCK headers must be jumped after you've programmed in your RFID cards. When programming new card data, both LOCK headers should be left un-shorted by jumpers.
The Buzzer: When an incorrect card ID is detected by the reader, the buzzer beeps three times, which acts as an audio indicator that you're using an incorrect card.
The Relay Enable Headers: If you want to use relays to power high power DC / low power AC devices, then you need to enable them using the R1 and R2 headers. If you have the R1 and/or R2 headers shorted by a 2-pin jumper, then they will become enabled. Relay#1 corresponds to output#5/LED#5. When the card that corresponds to output#5 is detected by the reader, then relay#1 will turn on. Relay#2 corresponds to output#6/LED#6. When the card that corresponds to output#6 is detected by the reader, then relay#2 will turn on. The written manual will include detailed information on how to use these relay as high power switches!
The Relay Output Terminal Blocks: These two terminal blocks are where you'd be connecting your high power switching. When a relay is off, then the CO (Common) pin is connected internally to the NC (Normally Closed) pin. When the relay is turned on, then the CO pin disconnects from the NC pin, and connects internally to the NO pin (Normally Open). Think of this as an on-off switch that is isolated from the rest of the circuitry.
The Output Terminal & Indicator LED Bank: This is where you'd be connecting your external circuitry. You'd be using these pins to connect to your Arduino, PIC, Stamp, TTL circuit project, etc. Each output has it's own LED indicator. You can disable the LED indicators by removing the LED_EN jumper. Output#1 Through output#6 correspond to a a specific programmed RFID card. The "IN" output corresponds to the logic on the blue indicator LED. This LED tells you when RFID data is being detected/received. When any given LED is on, then the relative output pin is at 5v logic. For instance, if the reader detects card data that matches card#5, then output#5 will go from 0v (low) to 5v (high), and LED#5 will turn on. If this is hard to follow, then simply watch the quick start video manual above!
The RFID Reader: This little guy has an external rectangular antenna that reads RFID cards from up to 4cm away. You can put a plastic cover over the RFID antenna if you'd like. RFID cards will still be able to communicate with the reader with no problem!
125kHz RFID Cards: RFID cards comes in many shapes and sizes. If you have your own, then they should work as long as they are rated for 125kHz. 6x Simple (Seen below) white RFID cards will be included in some reward tiers
RFID (In a really small nutshell):
Thank you for your consideration!
Risks and challenges
I have lots of experience when it comes to product design and manufacture. I've not come across a problem yet that has delayed reward shipments. I see no issue here. I have solid sources for all of the required components. There will only be a delay in reward shipments if this campaign is extremely successful. If that were to happen, then it would take slightly longer to have a great deal of hardware manufactured.Learn about accountability on Kickstarter
- (30 days)