We have been working hard on the Canadian shipping. You would not believe how hard this process has been. Journey: Wrath of Demons is heavy and some of the quotes we were getting were as high as $80 per box. But we can report progress; a contract has been signed and the process has started. There is more bad news. Your games are still in China and will be leaving very soon. We’ll give you more information once we have it. We know this is a horrible situation for you, but we could not risk getting trapped in the $80-per-box scenario. If there is any positive to this, you will not be charged any import duties or sales taxes.
We had to talk to several companies to resolve this, so it had an impact on our resin shipments. These are beginning this week. We will be shipping:
All resin scenery
All 4 Pilgrims
Berrok Bull Warriors
Borrack Bull Generals
As always, there will be more information to follow. The next update is a long one!
We have really enjoyed reading the responses from those of you that have opened and played (and painted!) your copy of Journey: Wrath of Demons. Here is a little news for those of you still waiting for the base game.
ROW: These were mailed by us. All copies are in the mail.
US Hub (except Canada): All copies have been sent.
AUS/NZ: All copies have been sent.
So if you are in one of these three locations and you have not received your box yet, it should arrive soon. It has left the relevant warehouse (or my living room for the ROW).
Canada Hub: Sorry, there has been a change of plan. The actual price of USPS delivery from the US to Canada was much more than we were originally told. So instead, we bulk shipped to a Canadian Hub and your package will come from there. The good news is that there will be no customs fees, taxes, etc. The bad news is that this will delay your package. We will post an update soon with more information. We are really sorry about this last minute delay.
EU: Shipping is not complete right now. Games have arrived in many countries, but there are still some boxes on the shelves of the distributor. However, we fully expect all boxes to leave the warehouse this week. So some of you might have to wait a little longer than backers in other areas, ROW/US/AUS/NZ, but the end is in sight.
Ray and I are packing the new resin minis that have arrived, and we’ll be ready to ship in early September. Here is the list of minis we have so far, it’s slightly larger than before:
All resin scenery
All 4 Pilgrims
Berrok Bull Warriors
Borrack Bull Generals
Don’t forget to check the forum for questions. Please post your comments! We love hearing from you, whether it is a question, an unboxing review, Quest report or you’re showing your painted minis. Who will be the first to post a new Quest?
To help anyone that is trying to create their own Quests, we have a Map Pack for BG Map Editor. This is a common tool for creating custom game maps. We do not have any documentation yet, but you should be able to figure it out from the help in the application. Download the application here:
You need to load the Map Pack into BG Map Editor first (menu Packs->Add and select the zip file you downloaded from DropBox). Tell us if there are missing images and we will add them to the Map Pack. Have fun!
We are preparing an important update about the expansions and all other components and future plans. This will take some time, as we want the information to be as accurate as possible, so bear with us while we work on it. More info to follow!
Throughout the campaign we have tried to keep you up to date but Ray and I have not really shared personal information; we are kind of private people. But today I have to break this rule: last week my wife and I had our first baby! Mother and child are doing very well, although both the parents are very tired.
Since we are a two-man company this has had an impact on our productivity. All I can do is apologize. But since shipping is mainly being done by third parties, there has not been much impact other than the lack of updates. Here’s the latest news.
US Hub: I have contacted the distribution center and they say Journey is top of the list. They expect to have all the packages in the mail by the end of next week.
EU Hub: The container has cleared customs and the pallets have just arrived at the EU distributor. They will start shipping this week.
Aus/NZ: The shipment took the longest to clear customs, which is a little frustrating. However, it’s over and distributor will also be shipping packages later this week.
Hello Backers! Here’s a short shipping update and it’s all good news.
US Hub: The container ship has arrived, the packages have cleared customs and are already in the distribution hub in New Jersey. They are being addressed and the last leg of the journey will start soon. We’ve asked how fast they can move the packages out but they have not had a chance to reply.
EU Hub: The container ship will arrive early, on the 23rd July. Our EU distributor in Italy is ready and says they can process 200 packages per week, so they should be able to send them out in a month.
Aus/NZ Hub: The container ship arrived on the 19th July and the packages are in customs. We’ll pass on more information once it clears customs.
ROW: We are mailing these from Hong Kong and we are 60% done. Once they are complete, we’ll start mailing the resin minis that have been cast already.
Packages have been arriving in the ROW already and we expect North American backers to start seeing packages soon. It won’t be too long until you all have a copy!
The backer reward booklet, "The Art and Making of the Monkey King", will include some painting tips and hints. Here is a rough preview of one step-by-step section. In the final booklet, we will include detailed instructions on the painting terms, such as layering and wet blending, but all these terms are standard in the miniature painting community so you can look them up now if you want to get started.
Hopefully this painting tutorial will be helpful for some of you; it is just a basic guide. If you have never painted before, I hope our miniatures and this, and future, tutorials will get you interested in grabbing a brush and bringing your game to life.
We have no rules defining which colors you should or shouldn’t use. After all, miniature painting should be fun and creative, so do not limit your imagination while painting. Over time, I have accumulated paints from many companies and have used a selection of them in this tutorial. Feel free to use matching colors from other companies, or any colors that catch your imagination.
I have used an airbrush for some steps, but this is not necessary. It is fast for coating large areas, especially when there are multiple models. But you can get a similar result using a larger size brush for the initial base coats and blending edges where necessary. In either case, it is better to use multiple thinned coats: you will get much smoother results.
You can find more detail on the painting techniques on the forum:
The dilution ratios are approximate: dilute to the appropriate thinness. It depends on the initial thickness of your paint and the shade. For example, strong dark colors need more dilution for layering than light highlights. You can use a matte medium as part of the water, if you want to.
The mixed paint ratios below are also approximate. Add small amounts of the second color until it looks right.
Step 1: When faced with painting many miniatures of the same type, it is easier and faster to run a stepwise production line than paint them one by one. Take all 15 Berrok Bull Warriors and trim the mold lines with a sharp hobby knife. Cut away from your fingers and use a cutting board. Make controlled, small cuts. Get supervision if necessary. Above all, be careful and do not cut yourself. Fill any gaps that are visible (I skipped this step). Wash the minis in warm soapy water to remove mold release agents and fingerprint oils, so that the primer and paint will bind properly. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Step 2: Base Coat with black primer all over the miniature, allow the black to dry, then spray with white primer from the top (zenith priming). For each stage of priming, several light coats will be better than one heavy coat. We are going to highlight with zenith lighting, and the zenith priming will provide an indication of how the light illuminates the miniature and casts shadows.
Step 3: I used an airbrush to apply thin base coats of Vallejo Model Color (VMC) Dark Flesh. You can also achieve the same result with a brush, painting 2 to 3 thin layers. Either way, you want thin coverage so that the zenith priming is just visible, to show you where you should place your highlights and shadows. Don’t cover the priming completely at this point.
Step 4: For the first shadow I airbrushed VMC Chocolate Brown. Dark areas of the zenith primer should still be visible, so use them as a guide for the Chocolate Brown shadow placement. Then I added some nuances to the skin tone by airbrushing a very light coat of VMC Magenta over the Chocolate Brown shadow areas. This is transparent and just changes the color slightly. You can do the same with a brush, layering on the Chocolate Brown, diluted 1:3 with water and then glazing over with a very light wash of Magenta, diluted 1:5 or more.
Step 5: At this point, I switched to using a brush. For the second shadow layer, I used VMC Chocolate Brown mixed with VMC Black, about 75/25. I applied a smaller layer to the deepest shadows especially on the abdominal and neck area to increase the contrast for the skin tone. This layer does not cover existing shadow areas completely, it is just in the deepest parts of the shadows. Use several thinned coats, covering a smaller area each time. Then I worked on the highlight layers, such as the top of the neck, shoulders, fingers and eyebrows, using VMC Sunny Skintone, diluted 1:3. I applied repeated highlight layers focusing on smaller areas, as I added VMC Ice Yellow to the Sunny Skintone. By the end, the paint was about 50/50 Sunny Skintone/Ice Yellow. For certain areas that I thought were a bit too reddish or to bring down the contrast, I glazed the area with a thin layer of 50/50 mixed Chocolate Brown/Sunny Skintone, I diluted the paint about 1:5 with water. Remember to load the brush very lightly for the glaze.
Step 6: Next, I moved on to the silvery metal parts, such as weapons, shoulder armor plates, belts, small weapons on the thigh and rims of the shields. As the base coat, I used Scale 75 (S75) Black Metal, a very dark metallic paint. These are great opaque paints and I got even coverage with one coat. After this was dry, I gave all the metal areas a wash with VMC Black diluted 1:5 with water, to add some depth. I applied the wash in a controlled fashion, rather than soaking the areas. This was allowed to dry before layering highlights with Games Workshop (GW) Mithril Silver, a really bright metallic silver. For the smallest, most extreme highlights, I went round again with a little VMC White added into the Mithril Silver (25/75).
Step 7: For the golden metal parts, such as the center of the shield and the small accent rings, the base coat was S75 Necro Gold. This is dark yellow metal, more like bronze than gold. Then I layered a highlight by applying S75 Viking Gold mixed with Necro Gold 50/50. For the final highlight layer, I used pure S75 Elven Gold. As before, each highlight layer is applied to a smaller and smaller area, using paint diluted 1:3 with water.
Step 8: Now it’s time for the wood and leather parts. For the weapon handles, I used P3 Traitor Green as the base color. Shadow layers were applied with a wash, made from VMC Black and a little Traitor Green mixed 75/25 and diluted 1:5 with water. For the highlight layers, I added VMC Pale Sand to the base color (25/75) and applied this to the top surface of the shafts. For the leather parts on the belt and shield straps, I used VMC Burnt Umber as the base color and highlighted with several smaller and smaller layers of paint, gradually adding VMC Sunny Skintone to the Burnt Umber. I painted 3 highlight layers and the final mix was about 75/25 Sunny Skintone to Burnt Umber.
Step 9: I wanted to have plenty of detail and contrast in the shield since it was such a large area. I used wet blending, but you can get the same result with layering. The wet on wet technique requires a bit of practice, but it is much faster than layering and there are 15 Bull Warriors to paint at the same time. So first, I applied VMC Chocolate Brown as the base coat. Then, while it was still wet, I quickly painted VMC Dark Flesh repeatedly on the upper parts of each plank in the shield, each time covering a smaller area. The paints mix a little on the miniature and give you smooth transitions. I was careful not to get Dark Flesh in the gaps between the planks. To add texture and contrast to the result, I continued the wet on wet blending by applying an extreme highlight of VMC Pale Sand. This was done by carefully drawing some thin lines around cracks and on extreme raised areas, while the previous blend was still wet. Finally, I washed all the wood lightly with Chocolate Brown and VMC Black mixed 50/50 to darken the cracks and smooth out the blends.
Step 10: For the cloth, I started with a base of VMC Prussian Blue. The shadows were darkened with a layer of Prussian Blue/VMC Black Red mixed (50/50). Then I added the highlight layer, which was a mix of Prussian Blue and VMC Ice Yellow (50/50).
For the rope on top of the belt and the fur, I used VMC Dark Sea Blue as the base, outlined with a wash of VMC Black. The highlight layer was a mix of Dark Sea Blue with VMC Pale Sand (50/50).
These are small areas, so only one round of shadows and highlights were used.
Step 11: For painting the eyes, I used the wet blending technique again. The base color I used was GW Troll Slayer Orange, while it was still wet, I quickly painted the upper corner of the eye using VMC Ice Yellow. Same again for the horns. I put two thin layers of VMC Chocolate Brown mixed with VMC Black 75/25, and then while this was wet, I quickly painted the VMC Iraqi Sand highlights on the tip of the horn and the part where the horn is attached to the head. Remember to repeat the highlight on smaller and smaller areas, working quickly so the paint is wet all the time.
Step 12: The base was finished with a base coat of VMC Black and the models are complete.
I hope you liked the result and found this helpful. If you are truly a beginner, there are plenty of simpler tutorials on the web. But if you are ready to try something a little more complex than dry brushing, I hope you found this guide useful.
This is an early draft. We will clean it up a bit and repost it in the painting section of our forum, where it will be easy for you to ask questions before it appears in The Art and Making of the Monkey King booklet.