£86
pledged of £15,500pledged of £15,500 goal
2
backers
Funding Unsuccessful
The project's funding goal was not reached on Thu, February 19 2015 2:04 PM UTC +00:00
£86
pledged of £15,500pledged of £15,500 goal
2
backers
Funding Unsuccessful
The project's funding goal was not reached on Thu, February 19 2015 2:04 PM UTC +00:00

About

You are a hunter entering an uncharted forest looking for powerful beasts to kill.

In 'Hunters: Beast Edition' the board game, you are a hunter entering an uncharted forest looking for powerful beasts to kill. The smaller beasts shouldn't be too much of a problem for a hunter of your skill, but to face the larger predators of the forest, and survive you will need to:

  •  Ally with other hunters or search for better weapons and armour.
  •  Rest to regain your energy and find food to replenish your health ready for the next fight.
  •  As well as joining forces with rival hunters to tackle mega beasts, you can also choose to fight them to take their weapons, food or armour. 

May the best hunter win! Oh and don’t forget to keep one eye over your shoulder… the infamous Goliath beast is lurking in the shadows waiting to pounce.

  • 4 player board game
  • Different forests to explore on each play through
  • Either play co-op or against other players
  • Many different strategies to success.

In-Action Photos

The Board Game Box
The Board Game Box
Mid-Game Photo
Mid-Game Photo
Score Pad
Score Pad

Objective

The first hunter to achieve 100 or more kill points, or to be the last hunter standing, wins the game. Kill points are earned by killing beasts.

The board is an 8×8 grid which is randomly populated by placing cards on the grid at the beginning of the game. On one side of the card is a forest, representing unexplored areas. The four hunters all start on a separate side around the board.

Components

  • Game board x 1
  • Deck of weapons cards (10 cards)
  • Deck of armour cards (10 cards)
  • Deck of beast cards (15 cards)
  • Forest cards x 64
  • A 'Goliath' card & Goliath counter token
  • Hunter tokens x 4
  • A pad of score sheets
  • Blue energy tokens x 40
  • Green energy tokens x 40
  • Orange food rations x 40
  • Dice x 2
  • Calculator may be required (not included)

Rule Book

Hunters

Each hunter will begin the game with a weapon and armour attribute cards. These attributes determine how powerful your attack power is at the beginning of the game. Your total attack power is determined by combining your armour and weapon attribute stats together. Example: weapon 4 + armour 10 = total attack power of 14. It is possible to change your attributes (weapons/armour) during the game (see forest cards).


Energy tokens & movement around the board

Energy determines how far your hunter can walk in the forest. You start with five energy tokens which deplete by one every time your hunter moves to a new tile. Your hunter can move one space per move in any direction; left,right,up or down. Your hunter cannot move diagonally. Your hunter can also move to any previously visited tiles. If you move to a clearing and choose to rest (see clearing), you do not lose an energy token for moving to that tile and you also gain one additional energy token. The maximum number of energy tokens you can hold is ten. If you run out of energy, your hunter is dead and you out of the game so manage your energy well!

Health tokens

Health tokens indicate your health condition in the game. You start off with five health tokens. Your health is depleted through fights (see fights) and is recuperated through eating food rations. The maximum number of health tokens is ten. If you run out of health, your hunter is dead and you out of the game so manage your health carefully!

Food rations

Eating one food ration will restore your health by one token. You start the game with two food rations. Food rations can only be eaten in clearings. When you choose for your hunter to eat a food ration, discard it from your score sheet to the central stock. Food rations can only be earned by landing on a food forest card.

Forest cards

Once a hunter enters the forest grid the player turns over the card (if still face down) to reveal one of three card types:

1) Clearing

Your hunter can either rest to gain an energy token, or eat a food ration to gain a health token. If you choose to eat, your hunter also loses an energy token as per normal. Place the tokens in the designated areas around your score sheet. If you chose to rest, you do not lose an energy token but in fact gain one.

2) Resource

There are three different resource cards. A food ration, in which case you gain one additional food ration. Alternatively, it could be either a weapon or armour card. In which case, pick up a weapon or armour card from the top card of the relevant deck to either swap with your current equipment (if better) or to be discarded. The discarded card returns to the bottom of the relevant deck.

Important: Once turned the resource card stays active throughout the game and any hunter can visit and use that same card in future moves. However, a hunter can not return to the same resource card within three moves. (A “move” is a single player's chance to play, whilst a “round” is everyone around the table having a turn.)

3) Beast Fight!

If your hunter lands on a 'Beast Fight!', you must draw the top card from the beast deck and place it over the top of the forest card.The hunter can either fight the beast or immediately run away. Running away depletes your energy by one token in addition to the token used to move to the tile in the first place. In other words, if a hunter moves to a beast fight but immediately runs away, the player will lose two energy tokens. (See fights for more details on running away or fighting the beast.) If a beast is defeated, the beast card is returned to the bottom of the beast card deck. The 'Beast Fight!' forest tile remains where it is and the next hunter to move into that space draws the next beast from the beast deck.

Fights

In a fight, the hunter rolls both dice. The white represents you the attacker and the red represents the defender (the beast or another hunter). Multiply the number on the dice by the corresponding total attack power (see hunter for info on attack power).

For example, if the attacker's attack power is 20 and on the roll the white die shows 3, the hunter's total damage for that bout is 60 (3 X 20).

If the defender/beast has an attack power of 35 and the red die displays a 2, their total damage then is 70. In this scenario, the defender wins that bout and the losing hunter has one health token removed from their total.

After this first bout, on the same turn, the hunter will continue to fight the defender (the beast or another hunter) until the health tokens of one of the fighters are completely depleted or a hunter runs away. If your health tokens are completely depleted, you are out of the game.

In between bouts, any hunter can choose to run away, but at the cost of one additional energy token (see energy). A beast never runs away from a fight.

If you win a battle with a beast, return the beast card to the bottom of the beast deck and write down the beast's total strength as kill points on your score sheet. The first to score 100 kill points wins the game.

If you lose the battle or run away, the beast stays on the map (and regains all his health) until a hunter beats it.

Teaming up with another hunter

It is possible to team up with one other hunter to tackle beasts too strong to hunt solo. To do this, both hunters need to meet on the same tile adjacent to a 'beast fight!' tile and declare their intentions (only two hunters can occupy a tile at once). Then the hunters move together to the 'beast fight!' tile on the next hunters' move.

All normal fight rules apply however the hunter's attack power is now combined together.

Example:

Hunter 1: Attack power 20

Hunter 2: Attack power 18

Total attack power = 38.

If the beast wins a bout, both hunters lose a health token. Either of the hunters can run away from the fight at the end of any bout, the remaining hunter can either choose to fight on or runaway too.

If both hunters survive and kill the beast, they both earn the full amount of kill points. If one hunter dies or runs away during the fight, and the remaining hunter decides to fight on and wins, only that hunter gets the full amount of kill points.


Fighting another hunter

It is possible to challenge another hunter to a fight for one of their resources (food token, weapon or armour). The fight proceeds as per normal with the following key differences.

At the start of your go, to fight another hunter you must move onto their tile and state the resource you wish to fight for. The defender can surrender and give the desired resource to the attacker at any point during or before the fight - the attacker must accept surrender and is not able to attack the same hunter again for three turns. The attacker can also run away at any point at a cost of one additional energy token. Note, the defender can not run away, therefore will not lose any energy tokens, but can only surrender and hand over the resource.

The same two hunters are not able to fight each other again for the next three turns.

Beast Types

Each Beast is unique and has it's own name and strength. The beasts of the forest vary in strength, they range from 'baby beasts' right up to 'mega beasts', and, of course, there is the king monster of them all, the Goliath (see Goliath).

Some beasts are too powerful to fight alone and can only be defeated by teaming up with an other hunter (see teaming up with another hunter). If both hunters survive, they both earn the full amount of kill points. If one hunter dies or runs away during the fight, and the remaining hunter decides to fight on and wins, only that hunter gets the full amount of kill points.

Baby Beasts

Attack power range: 6-10

The baby beasts have a small attack power and so are less likely to deal you serious damage, but they do have three health tokens. This means that you will need to beat the baby beast in three bouts to kill it. They are easier to kill but you gain less kill points towards your total.

Beasts

Attack power range:12-30

The standard beast has reasonable attack strength and also has three health tokens. They are tougher to kill and you should expect to receive some damage, but, if successful, you are rewarded with more kill points for your total.

Big Beasts

Attack power range: 32 - 42

The big beasts are tough foes indeed. They are strong and are quiet capable of killing you. Make sure you have plenty of health before engaging in a fight with a big beast. The good news is that although they are stronger than you, they are easier to kill as they only have two health tokens.

Mega Beasts:

Attack power range: 45 - 60

Mega Beasts, aside from the Goliath, are as tough as they get. They are very strong and are nearly impossible to kill by yourself. It is possible, but very unlikely. You will want to team up with another hunter before taking on these monsters. Although they are very strong, they only have only two health tokens.

The Goliath

Attack power: 75

The Goliath is the beast that rules them all. He is extremely tough with three health tokens and immensely difficult to beat, even when teaming up with another hunter. The reward of 75 kill points, though, is potentially worth the risk for the courageous hunters who try.

The Goliath is placed in the forest after the first ten rounds and then every seven rounds after that (a round is when all players have completed a move). After every round, the Goliath token will move up the 'Goliath counter' by one towards ten. When the counter reaches ten, the Goliath token is reset to number one on the counter and the Goliath card is placed, face up, on the board.

The Goliath card is placed on the board at a random grid coordinate. The coordinates are decided by rolling both of the dice. Using the middle six by six tiles, the red die determines the tile across and the white die determines the tile down. This means that the outer tiles around the perimeter of the board can be considered a 'safe zone'. If your hunter is vulnerable, you may want to consider moving to the 'safe zone' prior to the Goliath's arrival.

(Example picture: The red die rolls a 3 and the white die rolls a 5. The cross shows where you would place the Goliath card)

How to determine where to place the Goliath card
How to determine where to place the Goliath card

The Goliath cannot move and will stay on the same grid for three rounds to either be hunted or avoided.

During those three rounds, the Goliath counter token will need to be moved up the Goliath counter as before, even whilst the card is on the board. This means that the Goliath will appear after seven rounds the next time. After three rounds, if not hunted, the Goliath card is removed from the board until the next time the counter reaches ten.

If the Goliath lands on coordinates occupied by a hunter, the hunter must fight him on that hunters next go. The hunter cannot run away for two bouts. If the Goliath lands on a coordinate occupied by another beast, the Goliath takes the lesser beast's place whilst present. He is very tough and can only be killed by multiple hunters. If the Goliath is defeated, the last hunter standing in that fight wins the kill points. If both hunters survive the fight, they both get the kill points. If the Goliath is defeated he is removed from the board permanently.

Starting The Game

After all the players have placed their hunters around the board (see hunters), the starting hunter moves on to the first tile. After turning the tile over, the next action will be determined by what is on the forest card (see the forest card section or the game board for further explanation).

Once the first player has finished his action, the next player (clockwise) gets to move on to a tile on the board and so on until all players have completed their first action determined by the forest card. Once you are back to the first player, this completes one round. The Goliath token is moved up one number and all players go again.

The Second Round

On the second round the hunter in play can either choose to stay where they are; this does not cost an energy token (see energy). Alternatively they can move to the next tile and follow the usual process.

Winning The Game

The winner is either the last remaining hunter or the first to reach 100 or more kill points.

An Example Of Play

Round 1

Fred: Moves his hunter on to the board and turns over the first forest tile. It is a clearing. Fred decides to rest and he gains an energy token. He places the energy token with his others. That is all Fred can do in this turn.

Wilma: Wilma joins the board and turns over a food ration card. Wilma adds a food ration to the others in her stock. Wilma loses an energy token for moving.

Barney: Barney joins the board and turns over a 'beast fight!' immediately. He picks up a beast card and places it on the tile that his hunter is currently occupying. It's a baby beast, phew! Although Barney's starting attack power is relatively low, he chooses to fight the baby beast anyway. After a close fight, and at a cost of two health tokens, Barney wins! He has won 8 kill points – a victory, but at significant cost to his health. He also loses an energy token for moving. Barney now only has three health and four energy tokens remaining. He decides that he needs to find a clearing to rest on his next go. Although, with the map layout still hidden, he his not sure where the next clearing is currently.

Betty: Moves to the first forest tile. It is also a clearing. She decides to eat a food ration to gain an additional health token. This ensures that when she comes to a 'beast fight!', she will be able to go an extra bout straight away. Betty loses a food ration and gains a health token. She also loses an energy token.

That completes the next round, the Goliath token is moved up one number and the next round begins.. 

Q. Is the game just a concept right now or is it ready to play? 

The game is all finished and it's absolutely awesome to play. The game design has been completed and the components lined up ready to go. The game is great fun for casual and hardcore board gamers alike. 

Q. The game has already been completed, why Kickstarter?

I have already completed the game design, mechanics, components and found a manufacturer to build and ship the game - so why do I need Kickstarter?

Well because trying to publish a board game, completely independently, means that unless I have an initial amount of capital upfront to mass produce the game, the costs involved make creating the game economically unviable and at a retail price that would be too high to interest anybody. 

A successful kickstarter would mean that I could mass produce enough board games to make the overall cost to the consumers as cheap as possible! 

Risks and challenges

Q. Who will actually produce and manufacturer the board game?

A well known American board game company will manufacturer the game and have many years experience and hundreds of thousands of orders worth of experience. They are completely reliable. Please contact me if you have any further questions about this or any other issue!

Thanks in advance!

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